In the past decade, Americans have been going through a culinary schizophrenia. On one hand, the country is obsessed with eating less fat and cholesterol, while on the other, according to recent restaurant surveys, we are consuming desserts, especially those rich in chocolate, at an all-time high.

Obviously, I'm not the sole gourmand who feels that if I deprive myself during the meal, I deserve to indulge in a decadent grand finale. When you come to my house for dinner, you may munch on crisp vegetables and a yogurt-based dip, grilled fish or chicken and steamed fresh vegetables. But when it comes to dessert, I always serve a show-stopper like white chocolate strawberry shortcake roll. It's not just that a meal is incomplete without a great dessert, it's that dessert is the final impression your guests take home with them.

So, no matter what menu you are planning for your next get-together, here is a beautiful springtime dessert that not only looks spectacular but melts in your mouth. And in spite of its sensational appearance, it is much easier to make than you would think.

It's little wonder that with America's love affair with chocolate, white chocolate has been dubbed "the darling of the dessert world." If you've been shopping for white chocolate, you may have noticed that it is never sold under that name. Since it contains none of the chocolate liquor -- the unsweetened, fat-free chocolate solids extracted from the cocoa bean -- the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has made it illegal to sell it under the name white chocolate. Instead, it is labeled "white coating" or "white confectionery."

Foreign manufacturers also are prohibited from exporting any product labeled white chocolate, so they give it a range of exotic names. My favorite bars are Lindt Blancor and Tobler Narcisse.

According to food professionals, pure white chocolate contains only sugar, cocoa butter and milk, while confectionary chocolate often includes other ingredients. A simple way to check if the product is truly white chocolate is to read the ingredient list on the label. The products that contain other, less expensive vegetable fats than cocoa butter are considered to be a confectionery or summer coating and often come in chips and pastel colors. Since these products do not possess the flavor and texture of real white chocolate, they are best used for molding and decorating.

The ribbons and roses garnishing my cake are made by melting confectionery chips with a small amount of light corn syrup. When this mixture comes to room temperature, it becomes pliable and can be rolled and molded as desired. I call it adult play dough. But remember, it works just like chocolate. If it is too warm, it will be sticky and will need to sit longer in order to dry and harden. If it breaks and cracks, it is too cold; rewarm in the microwave for just a few seconds. You can store your completed decorations for several weeks covered in the refrigerator.

The spongecake roll is filled with fluffy white chocolate mousse made with raw beaten egg whites and whipped cream. During the past few years, health officials and spokesmen for the U.S. Department of Agriculture have warned that raw eggs are increasingly responsible for outbreaks of salmonella enteritis food poisoning. Those people at risk are the very young, the elderly, pregnant women and those whose immune systems have been compromised by illness. For people who are in good health otherwise, a bout of salmonella is uncomfortable, not dangerous, and some mousse lovers are willing to take the chance.

If you are worried about using raw egg whites, leave them out. The filling can be made simply by folding the room temperature )) chocolate into the beaten cream. The entire dessert may be assembled and decorated the day before serving.

Now that you've denied yourself for the rest of the meal, go ahead and splurge. Lighten up. Indulge. It's good for the psyche. DAnd if you still are ridden with guilt, run an extra mile tomorrow.

White chocolate strawberry shortcake roll

Serves eight.

SPONGECAKE:

4 large eggs, separated and at room temperature

1/2 cup sugar, divided

dash salt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

WHITE CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY MOUSSE:

6 ounces white chocolate

1/3 cup milk

2 large egg whites, at room temperature

1 cup whipping cream

2 pint boxes small strawberries, hulled (cut in halves or quarters if large)

WHITE CHOCOLATE GLAZE:

5 ounces white chocolate

2 teaspoons light corn syrup

1/4 cup whipping cream

hot water, if needed

Satin strawberry sauce (recipe follows), if desired

L White chocolate curls and roses (recipe follows), if desired

To make the spongecake: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease 15 1/2 -by-10 1/2 -by-1-inch jellyroll pan. Line with parchment paper and grease the paper.

Beat egg yolks and 1/4 cup sugar in small mixing bowl with electric mixer until very thick and lemon colored, about 5 minutes. Beat egg whites in separate bowl until frothy. Add salt and beat on high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until mixture forms stiff but moist peaks. Beat in vanilla. Pour yolks and flour over whites. Gently fold together until incorporated.

Pour into prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake at 375 degrees for 8 to 12 minutes or until top springs back when lightly pressed with fingertips and cake begins to pull away from sides of pan.

While cake bakes, place a clean dish towel on counter. Spray towel with vegetable cooking spray or sprinkle with powdered sugar. Remove cake from oven and invert onto towel. Remove pan and paper. Beginning at narrow end, roll cake and towel together as tightly as possible. Set aside seam side down and cool completely.

To make white chocolate strawberry mousse: Melt white chocolate in top of double boiler over simmering water. Add milk slowly, stirring until mixture is completely smooth. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Beat egg whites until soft and rounded peaks form. Spoon whites over chocolate. In same mixing bowl, beat cream to soft peaks. Fold chocolate mixture, whites and strawberries into cream.

To assemble the cake, unroll cooled cake. Spread filling over cake to the edges. Reroll cake. Wrap in heavy foil and refrigerate for several hours.

To make the glaze: Chop white chocolate into very small pieces; place in a small bowl and set aside. Bring cream and corn syrup to a simmer. Pour over white chocolate and stir until completely smooth and all of the chocolate is melted. If mixture is too thick, thin with a teaspoon of water. Place cake on rack set over a baking sheet and pour glaze over cake, spreading it quickly with a spatula to cover the sides. Refrigerate until set or overnight. Before serving, if desired garnish with chocolate curls or roses and serve with satin strawberry sauce.

Satin strawberry sauce

Makes 1 1/2 cups.

2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed.

Place strainer over bowl. Press strawberries through strainer with a wooden spoon to extract as much juice as possible. Scrape bottom of strainer often. The sauce may be refrigerated covered up to 2 weeks.

White chocolate curls and roses

6 ounces white chocolate, chopped or white chocolate chips

3 tablespoons light corn syrup

Bring about 3/4 inch water to a simmer in a small skillet and remove from heat. Place white chocolate and corn syrup in small bowl. Place in water and stir until melted. Remove from water and set aside until tepid. Remove from bowl and shape into a ball. Place between two sheets of waxed paper and roll 1/4 inch thick. Let set until firm enough to pull up the paper.

Cut white chocolate into 1/2 -inch strips. Roll the strips up arounthe handle of a wooden spoon to make curls and immediately transfer to a freezer. When firm, remove spoon. Store curls in covered container in the refrigerator.

To make roses, melt white chocolate as described but do not roll it out. When firm enough to hold its shape, break off small balls of white chocolate and with your fingers, press each into a rose petal, making the first one very tight for the center of the rose and others looser. Press together to form a rose. Store in the refrigerator in a covered container.