The following recommendations of red Bor deaux are base on tastings of barrel samples between April 1 and April 6. While barrel samples are not finished wines, they provide a good indication of a wine's quality. Readers should be aware, however, that samples can be misleading, even to experts, and no conclusive rating of a wine's quality can be made at this time.

The following categories loosely follow the 1855 classification of Medoc wines into First through Fifth growths, extending the system to all regions of Bordeaux. For instance, a rating of First indicates a wine that, in my judgment, corresponds in quality to what a consumer can expect of a First Growth wine in a good vintage. (I use 1979 as a personal benchmark.) An asterisk beside a wine rated First indicates that it outperforms normal expectations for a First Growth and rivals the best wines of a great vintage such as 1982.

The name of the chateau is followed by its geographic "appellation" and its current classification. In the Medoc, those ranks are 1st through 5th, Grand Bourgeois Exceptionnel (GBE), Grand Bourgeois (GB) and various levels of Cru Bourgeois (CB). In St. Emilion they are Premier Grand Cru Classe (P) and Grand Cru Classe (G) chateaux, with Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone all alone at the top by themselves (P1). In Pessac-Leognan and Graves, wines are either Grand Cru or unrated (except for Chateau Haut-Brion, which was rated with the Medoc). No ratings are given for Pomerols.

Wine consumers will find the best bargains among wines whose performance ranks above their official classifications. Wines that will likely offer very good value for quality are marked with the symbol $$$. Wines with their names in italics showed disappointingly considering their rankings, reputation and price.

Outstanding (First Growth quality)

*Petrus (Pomerol): Petrus doesn't carry a $300 price tag for nothing. This is a wine without compromise -- truly superb -- and it carries on an incredible string of three consecutive near-perfect vintages. In terms of body, it's a beast, but it also has roundness, subtlety and incredible length. The intense blackberry and spice flavor are almost surreal. Likely the best wine of the vintage, it will last for 50 years -- at least.

*Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac, 1st). The typical Lafite elegance, but with an extra measure of power. The flavors of black currant and cedar are bold and dramatic, with exceptional length. Almost as great as the otherworldly 1989. A keeper, but unusually open for Lafite.

*Cos d'Estournel (St. Estephe, 2nd). A wine of imposinconcentration, depth and structure, it also shows a core of great finesse. The intense flavors of chocolate, spice, blackberry and black cherry are remarkably long on the palate. Of the four greatest wines of the vintage, this will be the least expensive by far. A wine to lay down for your children, but go ahead and sneak a bottle in 10 years. $$$

*Trotanoy (Pomerol). A massive, rich, supple wine that resemblea dry version of vintage port. Behind the abundant, but soft, tannin is a roomful of spicy, peppery fruit. Give this wine at least 10 years. Made by the Moueix firm of Petrus fame, it will last for decades.

La Fleur Petrus (Pomerol). A little more angular and reservethan Petrus and Trotanoy, this Moueix wine has enormous concentration of blackberry, spice, oak and chocolate. Its length is exceptional.

Montrose (St. Estephe, 2nd). Here's one wine that surpasses its 1989 version. A return to the glory days of Montrose, it's a dramatic, long, muscular wine with excellent structure and intense flavors of black currant and spicy oak. $$$

Margaux (Margaux, 1st). The epitome of elegance, with plenty of concentration and ripe cassis flavors behind it. It falls short of the sheer majesty of 1982 or 1983 Margaux, but it's a stunning wine considering the troubles the Margaux appellation had in 1990.

La Grave (Pomerol). A powerhouse Pomerol, full of blackberry and spice, with great roundness and structure. Moueix again.

Latour a Pomerol (Pomerol). You guessed it -- another Moueix Pomerol. This one is as huge as you'll find in Bordeaux. On the surface it seems quite precocious, but there's a bucket of tannin underneath the ripe blackberry flavors. It needs at least a decade's aging.

La Mission Haut Brion (Pessac-Leognan, G). A very stylish wine, with lots of spice and a distinctive mineral flavor. So although it's not the blockbuster the 1989 was, it's still a classic La Mission.

Haut-Brion (Pessac-Leognan, 1st). It isn't the wine of the vintage, as in 1989, but it is an elegant, complex, rather forward wine with delicious flavors of black currant and spice. It wasn't easy to make great wines on gravelly soil in 1990, but with strict crop control, Haut Brion has done it.

l'Angelus (St. Emilion, G). Inky-deep color, with deep blackberry fruit. It's a huge mouthful of wine, just packed with fruit and tannin.

Exceptional (Second Growth Quality)

Cheval Blanc (St. Emilion, P1): This is a fine, classy wine but not a great Cheval Blanc. The flavors are right on target, with plenty of blackcurrant and spice, but the concentration is a little bit off. It pays to remember, though, that Cheval Blanc traditionally has been an easy wine to underestimate when young.

Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac, 1st): A near-great wine, 1990's Mouton just isn't quite there. It's elegant and spicy like 1990, but it's quite lean compared with 1990.

Clinet (Pomerol). Already showing a ripe, precocious nose, this winery has made great strides under the tutelage of oenologist Michel Rolland. Not for purists, because it's awfully similar to a top-notch California merlot like Matanzas Creek. $$$

Fontenil (Fronsac). Don't feel bad if you haven't heard of this little gem. I hadn't either until chateau owner Michel Rolland presented me with a sample. As deeply colored a wine as you'll ever see, it's just packed with rich, ripe fruit and firm tannins. It's as complex, deep and long as most of the top classified growths. Wines like this will put Fronsac on the map -- and fast. Perhaps the sleeper of the vintage. $$$

Le Bon Pasteur (Pomerol). Mr. Rolland's flagship wine, Le Bon Pasteur is a very concentrated wine with buckets of sweet fruit and a nice kiss of spicy oak flavor. Maybe not the most complex 1990 but certainly one of the most seductive. $$$

Sociando-Mallet (Haut-Medoc, GB). The king of the cru bourgeois wines strikes again. The wine is spectacularly ripe, with an elegance that is amazing for a non-classified growth. It needs 10-15 years but it is definitely one of the sleepers of the vintage. $$$

Monbrison (Margaux, CB). This wine has burst from obscurity in the past decade to the point at which it is the No. 2 wine of the Margaux appellation, second only to Chateau Margaux itself. It's no secret how: Fanatic dedica- tion plus low yields equals, big, ripe complex wines like this 1990. $$$

Carruades de Lafite (Pauillac, no rating). The second wine of Lafite, it equals the "grand vins" of some of its rivals.

Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Leognan, GC). The best Haut-Bailly I've ever tasted -- with a concentration level seldom seen from a Leognan red. Quite cedary and loaded with blackcurrant flavor, this is a wine built to last. $$$

Beychevelle (St. Julien, 4th). Once a middling performer, Beychevelle has come on like gangbusters since 1986 with a series of big, supple, structured wines like this 1990. There's plenty of black cherry and spice, and the oak, while apparent, is not too much. $$$

Troplong-Mondot (St. Emilion, G). Another Rolland client, Troplong-Mondot is rich and voluptuous but with plenty of backbone. Excellent blackberry and spice flavors. $$$

Clos de l'Eglise (Pomerol). A ripe, seductive Moueix wine with deep, rounded blackberry flavors and firm lashing of tannin.

Pichon-Lalande (Pauillac, 2nd). This Second Growth chateau has been so great from the mid-1970s on, that it's a surprise when it makes a wine that's "only" on the Second Growth level. It's a bit harder and edgy than most Pichon-Lalandes, without the velvety feel that makes this chateau so distinctive. But it's still a very graceful wine, with plenty of black currant and spice and just the slightest hint of chocolate.

Ducru-Beaucaillou (St. Julien, 2nd). An elegant, lean, taut wine in the "classic" style, it should appeal more to British than American palates. It's a classy wine, but far behind the spectacular, concentrated 1989.

Excellent (Third Growth quality)

Duhart-Milon-Rothschild (Pauillac, 4th). Although Duhart has the same owner as Lafite, it has rarely shown much family resemblance until recently, but the rich, meaty 1990 is even better than the excellent 1989.

Cos Labory (St. Estephe, 5th). A real breakthrough wine for former underachiever Cos Labory, with fine concentration, structure length and depth. $$$

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Leognan, G). Intense, lively flavors with a nice mineral touch. It's not one of the most concentrated 1990s but it has exceptional balance, depth and elegance.

Canon de Brem (Canon Fronsac). Deep and spicy, with hints of blackcurrant and plum. Nothing rustic about it despite the lesser-known appellation. A Moueix wine, it has lots of class and it's built to last. $$$

Feytit Clinet (Pomerol). A full, feminine, Rubensesque wine with loads of blackberry and spice. Probably best in late 1990s. From Moueix.

Moulin de Cadet (St. Emilion, G). A silky-smooth wine with lots of length, fruit and tannin. It's not well-known, but it's a Moueix property. $$$

Pavie (St. Emilion, P). A solid, not spectacular wine from Pavie. High tannin levels make it difficult to judge.

La Tour Figeac (St. Emilion, G). California-style lushness anrestrained tannins make this voluptuous wine a good bet for mid-1990s consumption. $$$

Pichon-Longueville-Baron (Pauillac, 2nd). A tough call. The tannins are brutal, but fruit is there in abundance. This is teetering on the edge of overmaturity, but I think it'll fall on the right side. May be great in the very long run. For patient gamblers.

La Tour Haut Brion (Pessac-Leognan). Well-developed aromas and tightly focused mineral flavors combine to make this a most successful second wine to La Mission Haut Brion.

de Mazeris (Canon Fronsac). A blockbuster wine with a lot of peppery spice. Fine length and aging potential though not the pinnacle of elegance. $$$

Chasse Spleen (Moulis, GBE). Rather closed and tough to judge, it's safe to say this isn't in the same league as this chateau's wonderful 1989. Still, there are some luscious black cherry flavors behind the heavy tannins.

La Gurgue (Margaux, CB). A ripe, concentrated wine with a creamy feel and good meaty flavors. From the makers of Chasse-Spleen. $$$

Bahans Haut Brion (Pessac-Leognan). The second wine of Haut Brion, and has the elegance and breed to show it.

Marbuzet (St. Estephe). The second wine of Cos d'Estournel. $$$

Haut-Batailley (Pauillac, 5th). One of the most successful wines in a difficult vintage for Pauillac. $$$

Citran (Haut Medoc, GBE). New Japanese ownership has this one-time mediocrity making intense, chunky wines with loads of burly charm. $$$

L Kirwan (Margaux, 3rd). Another underachiever on the upswing.

Leoville-Poyferre (St. Julien, 2nd). One of the better performances in a difficult St. Julien vintage from a much-improved chateau that is still looking for its breakthrough wine.

Branaire-Ducru (St. Julien, 4th). An elegant, angular wine with typically woody Branaire flavors. Good wine, only an average Branaire.

Canon La Gaffeliere (St. Emilion, G). German owners are making long-overdue improvements.

Chambert-Marbuzet (St. Estephe, CB). Elegant and firm, with lovely black cherry flavors. $$$

Tour Haut-Cassan (Medoc, CB). Despite simple Medoc appellation, this is serious stuff. Deep concentration and great flavor extraction. $$$

Latour St. Bonnet (Medoc, CB). Not really a finesse wine, but as much impact and aging potential as many a grand cru. Its flavors pack a real punch. $$$

Very Good (Fourth Growth quality)

d'Angludet (Margaux, GBE)

Anthonic (Moulis, CB) $$$

Arnauld (Haut Medoc, CB) $$$

Beauregard (Pomerol)

Cap de Mourlin (St. Emilion, G)

du Carles (Fronsac) $$$

Clarke (Listrac, CB)

Conseillante (Pomerol)

de la Dauphine (Fronsac) $$$

Fieuzal (Pessac-Leognan)

Fonplegade (St. Emilion, G)

Fonroque (St. Emilion, G)

La Fleur (St. Emilion, G) $$$

La Joye (Bordeaux Superieur) $$$

La Louviere (Pessac-Leognan)

La Tour de By (Medoc, GB) $$$

Lalande-Borie (St. Julien)

Lynch-Bages (Pauillac, 5th)

Palmer (Margaux, 3rd)

Perenne (Premier Cotes de Blaye) $$$

Phelan-Segur (St. Estephe, CB) $$$

Poujeaux (Moulis, CB)

Prieure Lichine (Margaux, 4th)

Puy Blanquet (St. Emilion) $$$

Vieux Chateau Certan (Pomerol)

Vieux Robin (Medoc, CB) $$$

Good (Fifth Growth quality)

Bouscat (Pessac-Leognan, G)

Clerc Milon (Pauillac, 5th)

Croix de Gay (Pomerol)

Croizet-Bages (Pauillac, 5th)

Fonreaud (Listrac, CB)

Gazin (Pomerol)

Grand Puy Lacoste (Pauillac, 5th)

Greysac (Medoc, GB) $$$

Gruaud-Larose (St. Julien, 2nd)

Hanteillan (Haut Medoc, CB)

Haut-Marbuzet (St. Estephe, GBE)

d'Issan (Margaux, 3rd)

La Terrasse (Bordeaux Superieur) $$$

Larmande (St. Emilion, G)

Le Bosq (Medoc, CB) $$$

Lynch-Moussas (Pauillac, 5th)

Malartic-Lagraviere

(Pessac-Leognan, G)

Patache d'Aux (Medoc, CB) $$$

Plince (Pomerol)

St. Andre Corbin

(Saint Georges-St. Emilion)

Siaurac (Lalande-de-Pomerol)

Fair (Cru Bourgeois quality)

Coufran (Haut-Medoc, GB)

Dassault (Pomerol)

Figeac (St. Emilion, P)

Fourcas-Dupre (Listrac, GBE)

La Pointe (Pomerol)

La Tour Martillac

(Pessac-Leognan)

Labegorce (Margaux, CB)

de Lamarque (Haut-Medoc, GB)

Lascombes (Margaux, 2nd)

Loudenne (Medoc, GB)

RTC Malecasse (Haut-Medoc, CB)

Mouton-Baron-Philippe (Pauillac, 5th)

Nenin (Pomerol)

Pavie-Decesse (St. Emilion, G)

Peyraud (Cotes de Blaye)

Verdignan (Haut-Medoc, GB)

Villemaurine (St. Emilion, G)

Poor showings

The samples provided for the following wines showed poorly in my tastings. While this is not a happy sign of their future quality, it should be noted that in some cases the samples may not have fairly represented the quality of the wine (though the fault for that is the producer's). Also, barrel samples can be misleading, and examples of "ugly ducklings" that turn into "swans" are not unknown.

Beaumont (Haut-Medoc, GB)

La Cabanne (Pomerol)

Canon (St. Emilion, P)

Cantemerle (Haut-Medoc, 5th)

Cantenac-Brown (Margaux, 3rd)

Clos Fourtet (St. Emilion, P)

Dauzac (Margaux, 5th)

Fourcas-Hosten (Listrac, GBE)

Grand Puy Ducasse (Pauillac, 5th)

La Grange (Pomerol)

La Tour Carnet (Haut-Medoc, 5th)

Lafon-Rochet (St. Estephe, 5th)

Lanessan (Haut-Medoc, CB)

Langoa-Barton (St. Julien, 3rd)

Larcis Ducasse (St. Emilion, G)

Leoville-Barton (St. Julien, 2nd)

Les Ormes de Pez (St. Estephe, GB)

Malescot St. Exupery (Margaux, 3rd)

Martinens (Margaux, GB)

Maucaillou (Moulis, CB)

Pape Clement (Pessac-Leognan)

Pontet-Canet (Pauillac, 5th)

Rauzan-Gassies (Margaux, 2nd)

Siran (Margaux, CB)

Talbot (St. Julien, 4th)