Fiori, 100 Painters Mill Road, Owings Mills,...


Fiori, 100 Painters Mill Road, Owings Mills, 363-3131. Fiori, the former Reisterstown establishment, is new to this part of the county, being housed now in the former home of the Country Fair Inn. This gracious colonial home is truly an oasis in suburbia. Unfortunately, the food is not as spectacular as the surroundings, and the heavily Italian menu does not mesh with the elegant interior. We did enjoy a heady Black Bean Soup laced with onions and mozzarella and Stuffed Eggplant, for openers. The entrees left us looking for more flavor. $$moderate. (Last visited 1/91.)

LYNN WILLIAMS Akbar, 823 N. Charles St., 539-0944. Akbar is a popular Indian restaurant, and deservedly so. The small room is well-dressed -- ethnic needn't mean funky -- and the menu well-traveled. And if you want it hot, the kitchen will take you at your word; such dishes as chicken Madras are blisteringly spicy. Non-fire-eaters (and vegetarians) will be pleased with chane ki chaat, a tangy cold chickpea salad, and vegetable curries that are subtle but far from dull. $$moderate. (Last visited 3/91.)

JANICE BAKER Tabrizi's, 1026 S. Charles St., 752-3810. Bravissimo. Michael Tabrizi cooks beautifully, the rooms of the ex-Soup Kitchen glow gracefully, the waiters wait intelligently, and the casually dressed, chic clientele look like they love it all. Recommendations from the Mediterranean menu: gagi mish mish; salmon and spinach in a Roquefort cream; an appetizer combination of hummus, baba ghanoush, tabouleh, homemade stuffed grape leaves, and the best falafel around; cornmeal crepes; eggplant rolls; and Greek and Turkish pastries. $$moderate. (Last visited 1/91.)

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