2013 York Road. Open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Phone: 252-3580. Fax: 252-3582.

Maria's Orient Express on York Road -- a few blocks south of the Maryland State Fairgrounds in Timonium -- lives up to its name. You can go either Italian or Chinese. We went Chinese recently, and ordered by phone: a 3/4 -quart portion of shrimp chow mein ($6.96) and the same amount of chicken chop suey ($5.90). We also ordered a pint of vegetable fried rice ($3.15), which proved unnecessary. Entrees come with small containers of rice.

The Chinese menu includes both Szechuan and Hunan, the first being "hot and spicy." Our food wasn't all that spicy, but the portions were more than ample, enough to satisfy the normal appetite.

You may have your order delivered -- that costs $1 extra. We picked up our order ourselves, and the food was still hot when we dug in at home.

If you don't want to take it off the premises, you can eat at the restaurant, which is very homey. There are tables for two and tables for four, arranged cafe style. And if you want soft drinks, there are dispensers in the front of the place.

The people who work at Maria's are very cordial, and the service is prompt. If it is sometimes said you can dine on Chinese food and be hungry again an hour later, it does not apply in this case. Maria's Orient Express makes certain you have enough.

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