JILLY'S, 1012 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville. Open Monday...


JILLY'S, 1012 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville. Open Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to midnight and Sunday noon to 10 p.m. Phone: 653-9029.

In an old episode of "M*A*S*H," Hawkeye (Alan Alda) goes to great lengths to ship to Korea an order of barbecued ribs from a Chicago eatery. Remember? He never gets to eat them, but the show perfectly illustrates the true rib lover's sometimes insatiable addiction.

There's something about the tangy, sweet taste of a good ribs sauce. It sticks to your ribs, too -- not to mention your fingers (hence the wet towel packet usually supplied along with the meal) and occasionally your eyebrows (if one attacks a big rack whole, rather than tearing ribs off one by one).

The baby back ribs at this friendly tavern/restaurant ($8.95 alone or $10.95 for the dinner) can satisfy. There's even a half-order for smaller stomachs, at $5.95. Throw in Jilly's large onion rings ($2.95) or a Jilly Salad ($5.50) and you have a major meal.

Decorated with Tiffany lamps and numerous TV sets, Jilly's is a comfortable quick-meal stop, but the ribs and other menu items are all available carryout. Included are soups, sandwiches, cold platters and an entree menu which includes such filling bargains meatloaf, clams in a basket, franks and beans and hot turkey or roast beef and gravy (all $5.95, with fries, cole slaw and roll).

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