A dozen more upscale items grace Cortes' "Specialties" menu section, among them, the evening we visited, two treatments for rainbow trout. One of my companions really wanted to try something different and so chose the Rainbow Trout Veracruz ($16.75). This more-than-ample piece of juicy, mild, perfectly cooked fish was smothered with a nicely textured, nicely balanced sauce of tomatoes, onions, olives and capers. It was different, yet somehow comforting. Rice and a small, fresh green salad came with it.