Given the recent media attention on red blends, one would think that the idea of combining grape varieties into a single wine is a novel concept. Hardly.
It's rare to find a Bordeaux made from one grape variety. Rhone Valley producers blend as many as 13 grape varieties into their wines. Italian Chianti and Spanish Rojas blend noble grape varieties with their native grapes. Blended wine has become as common as tourists. As governing bodies of wine growing regions here and abroad give in to winemakers wanting more freedom, conventional winemaking rules are fading.
In the United States, a wine labeled as a specific grape variety must contain at least 75 percent of that grape. But winemakers are giving up that moniker for the freedom to add more grapes and label their products “red blend.” Sales of blended wines grew nearly 8 percent over last year and sell more by volume than pinot noir or merlot, according to Nielsen.
How times have changed. Historically, wine growers have proudly clung to indigenous varieties and denounced any winemaker who dared to introduce another region's grapes. Angelo Gaja was pilloried when he added cabernet and merlot to the native Nebbiolo in his Barbaresco. Yet today his expensive wines are considered among the best in Piedmont.
Gaja had foresight. More varieties give wines more dimension and depth. Some grape varieties simply can’t produce complexity — Sangiovese can be acidic and one-dimensional in Chianti, but blended with merlot it shows a softer, more fruity character. Long ago, French Burgundians secretly blended syrah with their underripe pinot noir. Today, however, Burgundy is one of the few remaining regions that will not allow blends.
Zinfandel, a common base for many inexpensive red blends in California, is often joined by syrah, petite Sirah, Merlot and other varieties. The insanely popular Apothic Red, a breadwinner for E&J Gallo, is a sweet blend of primarily zinfandel, syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Long before zinfandel blends became popular, Marietta Old Vine has produced an extraordinary non-vintage red blend at a reasonable price.
Here are a few blends we recently tasted:
Cline Cashmere Red Blend 2015 ($15). Cline is best known for its zinfandel and Mourvedre. This truly exquisite blend of mourvedre, syrah and Grenache coats the mouth with ripe red berry flavors and chocolate-covered cherries. Good value.
Dutcher Crossing Winemaker’s Cellar Kupferschmid Red Wine 2014 ($39). From the Dry Creek Valley, this blend of unspecified red grapes offers good depth and complexity with fine tannins and upfront strawberry and cherry fruit with a dash of dried rosemary.
Bootleg Prequel Red Blend 2014 ($35). Syrah and petite Sirah combine to deliver a fist-load of blackberry and plum fruit flavors with good depth and hints of black pepper. Rich and long in the finish.
Paraduxx Candlestick Napa Valley Red Wine 2014 ($58). Duckhorn’s Paraduxx lineup is a fashion parade of exotic world blends. This one pairs syrah with Grenache to produce a bold dark fruit profile with fine tannins and oak notes of vanilla and spice. The Paraduxx Atlas Peak Red Wine ($80) marries the famous Sangiovese grown on the slopes of Atlas Peak with cabernet sauvignon. Delicious!
ONX Reckoning Estate Grown Paso Robles Templeton Gap District 2014 ($58). An enchanting blend of 63 percent Syrah, 21 percent Malbec, 11 percent Grenache and 5 percent petite Sirah. Luscious blackberry and blueberry nose and mouth coating flavors. Smooth with soft tannins, a delight to drink.
Trinity Hill The Trinity 2014 ($17). Merlot, Tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and syrah provide an interesting array of flavors with plum and dark fruit flavors, soft mouthfeel and hedonistic character.
Ruca Malen Aime Red Blend Mendoza Argentina 2016 ($9-12). This fantastic blend of Malbec, bonarda, cabernet sauvignon and merlot is an amazing value. Beautiful complex berry flavored and scented red wine with interesting mocha and chocolate notes. Round but with enough acidity to accompany food.
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Leese-Fitch California Firehouse Red 2015 ($12). Just about everything in Leese-Fitch's popular portfolio is a good value. This eclectic blend of petite Sirah, syrah, zinfandel, merlot, Mourvedre and Tempranillo may not have focus, but it is packed with jammy dark berry fruit and endless hints of chocolate, vanilla and espresso.
Line 39 Excursion Red Blend 2016 ($15). A wide collection of petite Verdot, petite Sirah, Zinfandel and merlot make a rich and jammy quaff in wine. The variety of grapes offer a variety of flavors ranging from plums to chocolate.
Chateau Ste Anne Bandol 2014 ($42). Mourvedre, Cinsault and Grenache grapes are blended in this extraordinary, old-world wine from southern France. It bursts from the glass with an aged, floral and earthy bouquet. Black cherry, herbs and savory flavors abound. It is very different.
Arinzano La Casona 2010 ($40). More complex with intense floral aromatics, persistent and focused cherry and dark fruit flavors, fine tannins and a long finish. The tempranillo (75 percent) is blended with Merlot. This wine will age well.
Upshot Sonoma County Red Wine Blend 2015 ($30). Made by Rodney Strong Vineyards, this sumptuous blend includes zinfandel, merlot, malbec, petit Verdot and Riesling. Good aromatics, soft tannins and dark fruit flavors.
Gabbiano Dark Knight 2016 ($17). This Italian blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and Sangiovese captures the best of these grape varieties. Smooth texture with copious notes of oak-inspired mocha and spice to accent the ripe berry flavors.
Decoy Sonoma County Red Wine 2015 ($25). Merlot dominates this blend with cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc and petit Verdot playing the support role. Rich blackberry and cherry fruit flavors with a dash of vanilla and caramel.