On a recent visit, we took a closer look at the list of specials, some of which are only available on weekend nights. The prices are higher here, but if you tend to fall back on your Helmand favorites, try one of them. We loved the zardalu challow, a stew of tender lamb chunks with sun-dried apricots, fresh tomatoes, garlic, turmeric and chili peppers. This is The Helmand's cooking at its very best, when an unusual balance of flavors is in complete control. Consider, too, the feather-light and velvety sea bass, stewed in ginger with sun-dried baby grapes.