Service had a few fumbles. During an initial visit, I had to ask for a menu and utensils with my third course, and returned from the bathroom to find my napkin on the floor. Probably I had dropped it myself, but at a really, really nice restaurant, you expect your server to replace and refold it in your absence, as though you are not just Olivia Coleman in “The Crown” but the actual Queen of England. We appreciated that sparkling water came gratis — and that staff worked overtime to keep our glasses full. But at this level of dining, you expect everything to be read-your-mind, napkin-refolded-while-you’re-in-the bathroom perfect. It was, but only during a second trip, when our expert servers displayed not only comprehensive knowledge of the menu but an ability to wipe every crumb from the table in just a few graceful motions after clearing plates.