Ask people their favorite place to get a crab cake, and you'll likely hear at least one of three names thrown in somewhere: G&M, Koco’s and Faidley’s. (Or maybe they’ll insist their mom makes the best crab cake around). We set out to try seven popular crab cakes in the Baltimore area to see which one was our favorite. A few themes emerged during our travels. -Freshness is key — and elusive. Only one of the seven we visited carries the state’s “True Blue” logo, meaning it’s reliably Maryland crab meat. (It may be surprising, given how emphatic Marylanders are about our crabs, but most area restaurants, including high-end spots, rely on out-of-state or even international crab meat.) -Texture is hard to get right. The cake should be moist on the inside but retain its shape; it shouldn’t fall apart when you stick a fork in it. It’s not the kind of dish with a lot of room for creativity, as the chef for Alexander Brown Restaurant told me when explaining why he refused to put a crab cake on the menu.