Co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss stand in the dining room of Le Comptoir du Vin, their French bistro and wine bar on Maryland Avenue in the Station North arts district.
Co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss stand in the dining room of Le Comptoir du Vin, their French bistro and wine bar on Maryland Avenue in the Station North arts district. (Barbara Haddock Taylor / Baltimore Sun)

Station North bistro Le Comptoir du Vin was named to “The Hot Ten," a list of America’s top new restaurants for 2019, by Bon Appétit.

“This is not the first restaurant to serve French classics in a cozy, warmly lit, slightly ramshackle bistro setting,” the authors wrote of the Maryland Avenue spot. “But if there’s any place in the country that’s making this quintessential genre feel fresh and new and fun and youthful, it’s Baltimore’s Le Comptoir du Vin.”

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We have to agree.

In a review earlier this year, The Baltimore Sun wrote that the restaurant’s chef, Will Mester, “takes ordinary items and makes them extraordinary,” adding “If you couldn’t see the entire kitchen from the dining room, it would be hard to believe that such phenomenal dishes came from such a tiny staff.”

“We’re really thrilled and honored to be part of the list and honored to represent Baltimore,” co-owner Rosemary Liss said Tuesday.

Liss acknowledged that longtime fans may be concerned about getting a table following the increased publicity.

“Even my friends now are like, ‘I’m never going to be able to come,’” Liss said with a laugh. But she tries to reassure guests by reminding them that the restaurant books out only a month in advance — and the bar is available for walk-ins.

Le Comptoir du Vin came in at No. 8 on the list. At the top was Konbi in Los Angeles, followed by Dallas’s Khao Noodle Shop and Richmond’s Longoven.

“These are the restaurants that reminded us just how special dining out can be,” Bon Appétit editors wrote.

Three other local hotspots were nominated for the list: Fadensonnen, Larder and Sophomore Coffee.

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