If those appetizers make statements with uncomplicated flavors, a luscious tuna poke appetizer gets to work in a little beauty. Poke (pronounced po-KAY), Hawaiian-style sashimi, is served with a foam of avocado and a sliver of tuna "candy," which you can safely think of as jerky. A roasted bone marrow appetizer is odd, though. The bone isn't split, as it usually is, and this version is more gelatinous than you might like. But the presentation begins to makes sense when you mix the marrow with the plate's parsley salad and garlic.