The owners of Polenta Cafe in Hampden seem to know what they're doing.
They're capitalizing on several restaurant trends at their cozy BYOB cafe on The Avenue: America's continued love of Italian cuisine, an increased interest in gluten-free dishes, and a focus on a singular food.
As the name suggests, their niche is polenta, the versatile Italian cornmeal that can be served deliciously mushy or fried into crispy shapes.
The revolving, gluten-free menu features offerings like polenta sticks with tomato or four-cheese sauce, charcuterie, a lasagna of the day, and creamy polenta with various toppings, including meatballs and shrimp. There's even a polenta dessert.
Vincenzo Magaldi, who owns the cafe with Francesco Legaluppi and Monica Lapenta, serves as gracious host and server in the spot formerly occupied by Daniela Pasta & Pastries. (That Italian restaurant moved to a larger space a block away.)
At Polenta Cafe, Magaldi's charming effervescence makes you want to linger in the tiny spot, which seats 14 inside with a handful of tables on the sidewalk. His 9-year-old son, Matteo, is a courteous assistant on some evenings.
Their Italian banter makes you feel like you've stepped into a scene from "Cinema Paradiso." It's a pleasant camaraderie.
As you chat with Magaldi, you piece together his story. He's lived all over Italy, landed in Chevy Chase and was drawn to Hampden when the building became available. The restaurant opened in May.
It's a labor of love for Magaldi, who crafted most of the striking wood furniture in the small room, including a dumbwaiter.
When asked why he opened a place specializing in polenta, he answered simply, "It's something I like to eat."
Scene & Decor: The stylish dining area showcases handcrafted wood furnishings by Magaldi with a plate-glass window and two mirrors to brighten up the diminutive space. It seats 14 at two tables, a counter and a ledge that overlooks 36th Street. Because of the close quarters, there is a congenial, communal vibe among diners.
Appetizers: The la riccia salad ($8) was a flavorful batch of mixed greens and thinly sliced pears, drizzled with a tangy honey-vinegar dressing and served with delicious crunchy polenta sticks. The stecco di Matteo ($9) is named after the owner's young son, who came up with the dish. The snack of sausage cubes, pecorino wedges (they were out of the listed mozzarella that night) and tomato cubes — lined up next to each other like two kabobs without the skewers — was a treat. Of course, it came with the yummy polenta sticks.
Entrees: The piovono polpette ($15) was a terrific dish with five housemade, gluten-free meatballs covered with a thick San Marzano tomato sauce over the creamy, "country-style" polenta. The ai gamberi ($18) was a seafood lover's dream, featuring five jumbo shrimp perched atop polenta and draped with a savory tomato sauce freckled with piquant capers.
Drinks: Italian water and soft drinks. It's BYOB, with a $4 corkage fee.
Service: Our server, one of the owners, was knowledgeable and a proponent of his menu.
Dessert: Yes, you can eat cornmeal for dessert. The polenta nocciolata ($6) was a wonderful pillow of creaminess with a dollop of organic hazelnut spread (made with cocoa and milk) in the center. Swirl the two together to create a rich chocolate polenta. There are also several sorbets on the menu.