The main requirement for a good sushi experience is fresh, high-quality fish that is beautifully prepared. But to advance a level — to jump from good to great — the meal also has to deliver a little visual drama.
At Yama Sushi Bar in Hoes Heights near Hampden, that excitement comes with almost every dish. From colorful rolls to noodles illuminated with tiny blue lights, the food at Yama looks like a lot of fun. And the kitchen can do more than make a plate pretty; the food tastes as good as it looks.
Scene & Decor Yama is narrow, deep and cozy, with dim lighting coming from brightly colored pendants, and there's a smattering of Asian-influenced art on the walls.
When we arrived just before 7 p.m. on a Wednesday, the restaurant was a little less than half full. During our meal, occasional carryout orders went out the door but the place was never crowded.
We settled into a deep booth that felt private — though later in the meal, a booming voice at the other end of the restaurant reminded us that in hushed spaces, sound can travel. Overall, though, Yama Sushi's atmosphere was more calm than bustling.
Appetizer Our sushi and sashimi entree came with a bowl of steaming miso soup and a simple green salad topped with chunky ginger dressing. Though neither offered any surprises, they were both tasty versions of the classic Japanese soup and salad. The dressing, with an intense combination of sweetness and spice, was especially likeable.
A bowl of edamame ($3.95) was also standard but capably prepared. A more interesting appetizer, the B-B-Q squid ($9.95), did catch us by surprise.
We expected a jumble of calamari rings. Instead, we were presented with a whole grilled squid, slathered in barbecue sauce and sliced on an angle. Sweet and slightly smoky, the sauce was lovely. The end pieces of squid were a bit chewy but overall, it was cooked nicely — and it looked fantastic.
Entrees Though a sushi and sashimi combination plate — including six pieces of sushi, eight pieces of sashimi and a spicy tuna roll ($20.95) — wasn't full of adventurous and daring fish, the selection of tuna, salmon and shrimp was fresh and beautifully presented.
The fish was cut neatly and arranged with obvious care on a large white platter, including drizzles of spicy sauce and (the piece de resistance) tuna slices perched on top of a wine glass filled with white noodles that glowed blue, thanks to a small light in the bottom of the glass.
Did it make the tuna taste better? No. But did it make us, and the people at the tables around us, smile? Absolutely.
We also experimented with a couple of rolls from Yama's specialty list. The Yama Roll ($13.95) was a decadent combination of lobster, avocado and eel, topped with green roe and imitation crab. Together, the ingredients were lush in texture, with sweet, rich flavor.
Our waitress also brought us a Salad Roll ($10.95) as a gift from the kitchen, and we were glad she did. Crispy shrimp tempura, rolled with white tuna, red snapper and imitation crab, then topped with bright seaweed salad, looked fun and tasted great. We loved the mishmash of textures and the jolt of freshness added by the seaweed.
Drinks We washed down the sushi with glasses of inexpensive house chardonnay ($3 per glass) and a tall Sapporo lager ($5.25). But our favorite beverage was the Ramune soda ($1.75), a fizzy Japanese drink with a funky-shaped bottle and unusual bubblegum flavor.
Desserts Yama's dessert menu includes the usual mix of fried treats and Asian ice creams we expect to see at sushi joints. We opted for a scoop of fried vanilla ice cream ($4.25), which was a touch melted when it arrived, but still a sweet end to the meal.
Service Our food's timing from the kitchen was appropriate and with two waitresses tag-teaming our table — both of whom were very kind — we were kept in drinks and water throughout the meal.
They had a lot to be happy about, too, given our reactions after the delivery of each plate. When a meal's appearance makes us smile as much as its taste does, we always go home happy.
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Nearby reviews: Dish Baltimore - Hampden/Woodberry