There is something charming about straightforward Mexican food. Tacos and margaritas, served in cheerfully decorated rooms, bring people together.
The scene at Mezcal, an Owings Mills Mexican joint open since late 2013, proves this. Despite sometimes slow service, the restaurant's mostly well-executed Mexican favorites and bright, colorful decor make dinner a festive, fun experience — the kind that's best enjoyed with a crew of friends.
Scene & Decor We visited Mezcal in mid-May, post-Cinco de Mayo. It was a time when, according to owner Carlos Ulloa, the restaurant saw record crowds. Days later, on the Thursday after Mother's Day, Mezcal was still packed.
Just after 6 p.m., the narrow hallway serving as the restaurant's entrance was crowded with several parties waiting for tables. We got lucky, with a table materializing less than 10 minutes after we arrived (the hostess estimated a 20-minute wait).
After settling into a booth, we realized that some of our luck had to do with the small size of our group (we were three). At many other tables, groups of six or more shared chips and salsa and clinked glasses, toasting to the near-end of the workweek.
Appetizers Immediately after we sat down, a waiter brought us a bowl of thin, crispy chips and a tasty bowl of medium-spicy red salsa. To that, we added an order of queso con chorizo ($7.49), which arrived with even more chips. Mezcal was not skimpy with their chips — certainly a point in the restaurant's favor.
The cheesy appetizer was creamy, spicy and satisfying, as melted cheese usually is. But by our second bite, we noticed something odd: the sausage had a distinct Old Bay flavor, making us wonder if the chorizo had been replaced with Roma Gourmet's Old Bay sausage. The combination worked for us but others may disagree.
Entrees The likable, familiar flavors of the appetizers carried over to our entrees. El Favorito ($16.99), a combination plate including shrimp, chicken and scallops served over rice, with peppers and onions, was well-seasoned, slightly spicy and nicely cooked.
A grill-happy meal of steak and shrimp topped with spicy red sauce, called Mar y Tierra ($18.99) arrived with tortillas, rice, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, guacamole and sour cream. The sauce and marinades were terrific and the dish worked overall, especially after we sliced the steak to eat with the tortillas, fajita-style.
However, the steak itself ended up was overcooked. We weren't offered a choice of desired temperature; when it arrived, it was cooked to about medium. But thanks to a sizzling hot platter, the meat continued cooking at the table, rendering our final bites overdone.
Mezcal's street-style tacos came in batches of three with rice, salsa and beans on the side. We chose the carnitas option ($11.99) and were impressed with the flavor and texture of the slow-cooked pork. Double-wrapped with two corn tortillas, the tacos stood up to the meat and sauces, delivering plenty of flavor.
Drinks With our meals, we downed a couple Modelo Especial lagers ($3.49) and sipped, more slowly, a jalapeno margarita ($9).
Spicy margaritas have been a rising trend and some are better than others. Mezcal made a good one that was well-balanced between sweet and tart, with the right amount of heat. It was both spicy and refreshing.
Dessert As big Mexican dessert fans, we were excited about the prospect of the Dulce Trio ($9), a platter including churros, tres leches cake and flan. The platter was much larger than we expected, with what looked like full-size servings of each. Unfortunately, though, it was a letdown.
The churros, with their crunchy texture and sugary topping, were a hit but the cake, usually so moist, was dry and disappointing. Though the flan had good, eggy flavor, it lacked some of the dessert's trademark jiggle.
Service After leaving, we discovered that we weren't charged for the dessert platter. We chalked that up as an apology for the service, which was friendly and well-meaning but slow, especially when we were waiting for the check.
We couldn't be too angry, though. The restaurant was packed and our waiter was doing his best. Plus, a free apology dessert, even if it isn't perfect, goes a long way.
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