In the summer, sitting outside on the patio with friends, we ordered a bottle of Trabanco Natural, a refreshingly tart drink. The sommelier made it a show, pouring from a porron, a glass vessel that looks like it belongs in a chemistry set. As he poured, the server held his hands as far apart as he could, creating a long stream. It was flashy, but also practical, as Jake later explained it's meant to aerate the cider to open up its flavors. In the Basque region, he said, young imbibers compete for the longest pour from a porron, like American frat dudes chug beers.