John-John Williams IV has a story in Wednesday's Taste section about the revival of the formal afternoon tea tradition.
Afternoon tea is not to be confused with high tea. Afternoon tea has various applications in England, depending on class. But let's say that there is the domestic version, performed in households, and the institutional version, performed in fancy hotels. That version let's call formal afternoon tea. It's that version that's the focus of Williams' story.
The tradition comes and goes in Baltimore. My pal Donna Beth Joy Shapiro ran the lovely Old Waverly Tea Room, which was survived by the Thir-Tea First Tea Room and Cafe. I keep meaning to lean over the partition and ask Williams if Bertha's is still doing afternoon tea