There are many California chardonnays whose producers fancy that they've made a wine worth $30. Most are dead wrong. Many are hardly drinkable. But this rich white wine from Matanzas Creek is the real deal — a perfect balance of fruit and oak that almost restores my faith in this category. The flavors are no surprise — apple, pear, vanilla, lemon, toast — but they come with layer upon layer of complexity. Yes, this may be a bit of a splurge, but it would hold its own with wines twice its price. Brilliant!

2008 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay

From: Sonoma County, Calif.

Price: $30

Serve with: Salmon, ham, pork