Foppiano is one of California's stars when it comes to the underappreciated petite sirah grape, which fares far better in that state's soils than it ever did in its native France. This estate-bottled petite sirah is a burly wine with a gentle soul. It combines full-bodied fruit and high alcohol (a heady 15.2 percent) with a silky-smooth texture. It delivers as much complexity as many a three-figure cabernet — with flavors of blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, chocolate, white pepper and earth. Though the tannins are soft, it has the backbone to improve for at least 5-10 years. Frugal collectors might want to lay down a case.

Wine Find: 2008 Foppiano Petite Sirah

From: Russian River Valley, Calif.

Price: $20

Serve with: Hearty stews, red meat, pasta