I've been a fan of Roederer Estate since it first came on the market in 1988. Even at the start, this spinoff of Champagne's Roederer firm has stood out among California sparkling wines. It had been a few years since I'd tasted it, but the Anderson Valley winery's nonvintage brut is better than ever — as faithful a replication of the full-bodied, bold style of Champagne as you could hope for in an American wine. It has deep, toasty, yeasty flavors and remarkable grip — with none of the excess fruitiness that afflicts too many California sparkling wines. If there's any place on earth that mimics Champagne as well as Anderson Valley, I haven't found it.
Wine Find: Roederer Estate NV Brut
From: Anderson Valley, Calif.
Serve with: Caviar, smoked salmon, lobster