Torres has gone back and forth on whether to market this wine as semi-sweet or dry, but with this vintage seems to have settled on dry. It's a good choice, as this blend of 85 percent Gewürztraminer and 15 percent muscatel strikes a terrific balance of exuberant fruit and food-friendly zip. It's an aromatic wine with nuances of lime, pear, tropical fruit, mineral and Asian spices. But with all that flavor, it still retains some elegance and restraint and doesn't go over the top. It displays excellent grip and intensity, but don't push it by holding on too long. Younger is better.

2009 Torres Vina Esmerelda

From: Cataluña, Spain

Price: $15

Serve with: Grilled seafood, spicy Asian cuisine