This one is for the collectors and (moderately) high-rollers. At $45-$50, it certainly isn't cheap, but when you consider the quality, this lush, complex Bordeaux-style blend is a steal at this price. This wine, which comes from as fine a "sweet spot" for cabernet sauvignon (61 percent of the mix) as anywhere in the world, delivers a classic mix of black cherry, cassis, wild berry, chocolate and coffee flavors. Big without being a blockbuster, it appeals to both the senses and the mind. While delicious now, it will gain depth and bouquet for 20 years or more. You might have to exert an effort to find it, but it's worth the search.

Michael Dresser

2007 Dominus Estate Napanook

From: Napa Valley, Calif.

Price: $45

Serve with: A fine cut of beef or lamb