Gruner veltliner is still one of the world's more obscure white wine grapes, though the Austrian variety is winning more acceptance each year. It deserves the affection oenophiles have been lavishing on it because it produces wines of outstanding charm and considerable complexity. This is one of the more popular-oriented labels, obviously adapted for the American market and our fear of mispronouncing anything. It's a lively, fresh, dry wine with goos structure and a mix of lime, tropical fruit, mineral and herb flavors. If you find most rieslings a little too sweet, this could be an excellent alternative. Drink before the leaves turn red.

2009 Grooner Gruner Veltliner

From: Niederosterreich, Austria

Price: $13

Serve with: Shellfish, light-fleshed fish