This full-bodied, rich sauvignon blanc is a far cry from the thin, grassy wines that are more typical of this white grape. It's loaded with flavors of herbs, figs, pear, kiwi, and tropical and citrus fruits, and has a bold individuality. The finish is long and gripping. It has the advantage of a glass stopper rather than a potentially freshness-killing cork. (But don't mistake this review as an endorsement of this winery's 2009 wildly overblown Home Ranch chardonnay — a wine so bad it's a work of perverse genius.)

— Michael Dresser

2009 Sbragia Family Home Ranch Sauvignon Blanc

From: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, Calif.

Price: $20

Serve with: Full-bodied seafood, Thai or Indian cusine