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Restaurant review

Good pizza and spectacular views at Angelo's Pie in the Sky

For The Baltimore Sun
The view is the main dish at Angelo's Pie in the Sky.

Angelo's Pie in the Sky is not your average Baltimore pizza joint.

The menu, with its pizzas and subs, might look familiar, and the friendly, low-key staff has a lot in common with waiters and waitresses at other casual Italian spots in the area. But as its name suggests, Angelo's has something all its own: It is quite literally in the sky.

Scene & Decor Located on the 15th floor of St. Mary's Roland View Towers, Angelo's has 2 1/2 walls of large windows, providing a clear view for miles to the south, east and north of the building.

Inside, Angelo's has all the standard trappings of a small Italian restaurant: a wood bar, large metal pizza oven and red-and-white-checked tablecloths. During our visit, early on a Saturday evening, we had the place nearly to ourselves — and no one could take their eyes off those windows.

Before making it upstairs, diners enter through the lobby of the building, which serves as a senior residence. The first glimpses of the building's interior, and even of the top floor, aren't terribly exciting. But once inside the restaurant, the view is jaw-droppingly good. It held our attention during the entire meal.

Appetizers A garden salad ($5), crunchy with lettuce, onions, olives, peppers and tomatoes, offered no deviation from the norm. Topped with a healthy sprinkle of Parmesan cheese and tossed with a well-balanced vinaigrette, it delivered just the flavor and crisp texture we expected.

Entrees Angelo's menu covers the standard Italian basics, with a familiar selection of pizza, pasta and subs, along with a few traditional dinners, similar to what you might see on diner menus — meals like liver and onions and pork chops.

A plate of spaghetti and meatballs ($9.95) was so heavy and hot, our waitress struggled to place it on the table without spilling. The serving was huge — it had to be half a pound of pasta, before cooking — with soft, flavorful meatballs, made in-house by the Angelo's team.

The red sauce surprised us with its bright acidity. It was well-seasoned and we enjoyed it, but it was more tart, and less savory, than we expected.

A chicken cheesesteak sub ($7.50) was less unusual. The chicken was cooked nicely and the sandwich was hearty, but it wasn't especially memorable.

Angelo's is famous for its enormous slices of pizza, but the "biggest pizza slice" is only available during the day on weekdays — so we missed it. We were more than satisfied, though, with our 10-inch pie, topped with pepperoni and small pieces of sausage ($8.25).

The crust was chewy, with just enough char, and the piping-hot pie had the right mix of sauce, bread and toppings. We liked it enough that we didn't even mind that our waitress, unfortunately, misheard our order. We asked for pepperoncini and got pepperoni.

Service In retrospect, we may have mumbled when we ordered the pizza, but it was also clear that our waitress was having an off night. In addition to the pizza mix-up, she forgot our salad, until we reminded her. She was friendly, though, and quick to take responsibility for those things that went wrong; she apologized several times.

Drinks Angelo's is BYOB with no corking fee. We didn't spot anyone taking advantage of the policy, but we did regret not bringing a decent bottle of Chianti with us. The pizza begged for it.

Dessert Cannoli cake ($5.15), imported from Vaccaro's, was dense, sweet and a nice way to end the meal.

As our waitress handed us the check, she apologized one more time for the glitches in service, joking lightly as she explained she was having a rough first day back from vacation.

We appreciated it, but it wasn't necessary; the minor mishaps didn't ruin our meal and, even if they had been bigger problems, her willingness to take responsibility was endearing.

And as we took one last quick look out the window, at that fabulous view of the city, it reminded us that at Angelo's Pie in the Sky, the experience is as much about the sky as it is about the pie.

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Nearby reviews: Dish Baltimore - Hampden/Woodberry

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Angelo's Pie in the Sky

Backstory: Angelo's Pizza opened in its original location, at the corner of 36th Street and Keswick Avenue in Hampden, in 1974. The restaurant closed in April 2014 and reopened in its current location in January 2015, as Angelo's Pie in the Sky. Its new space, on the top floor of St. Mary's Roland View Towers, formerly housed The Dizz Grandview and is known for its impressive view of the city.

Parking: Street parking and lot outside the building

Signature dish: In addition to the view, go for the pizza at Angelo's. The crust is chewy and lightly charred, and the toppings are savory and plentiful.

TVs: None

Where: St. Mary's Roland View Towers, 15th floor, 3838 Roland Ave., Baltimore

Contact: 443-438-9632; angelospie.com

Open: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday; 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday; 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday

Credit cards: All major

Reservations: Accepted

Bottom line: Visit this Italian spot for good pizza and breathtaking city views.

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