The Sunday review is of Stang of Siam, a new Thai restaurant in Baltimore's Midtown-Belevdere neighborhood. Without notice, much less fanfare, Stang of Siam just kind of opened one day in late September. But from day one, it came across as a fully seasoned restaurant.

Kind of odd, to tell the truth. It turns out that Stang of Siam is related to a group of popular D.C.-area Thai restaurants, the best known of which, The Regent, opened back in 2004 in the Dupont Circle neighbohood. It took some digging to find out even that much. It'd be overstating the matter to say that Stang of Siam's coyness about its ownership is unnerving. But there's something about it that nags at me.

Do you care who owns the restaurant you're eating in?

Here's the review of Stang of Siam.