I am a sucker for sizzle.
So when a crackling tandoori chicken ($12.95) arrived at our table at Kumari, an Indian restaurant in Baltimore's Mount Vernon neighborhood, my mouth immediately started watering.
Sometimes there is no substance behind the sizzle, but happily that was not the case here. This noisy, colorful chicken was outstanding. Thanks to time spent in the company of assorted spices, it had reddish skin. It also had the distinctive sear that come from the high heat of a tandoor oven, a version of open-fire cooking — Indian barbecue, if you will. It was juicy and tender, the result of being marinated in yogurt. Though I asked for the spicy version, as opposed to medium, the heat from the spices was not fiery. Served on a metal platter with charred vegetables, it was superb.
The chicken was the highlight of a very good meal enjoyed by our party of four. Our appetizers were outstanding. A plate of assorted vegetables ($8.95) consisted of two samosas (flaky pastries stuffed with potatoes) and chili and vegetable pakoras (spicy fritters) that had flavor and flair. The onion pakoras ($3.50), the Indian take on onion rings, were also remarkable: crisp, crunchy and savory.
One venture into Indian fare that did not meet our approval was the Nepali achar ($2.50), or homemade potato pickles. They were too hot for our Western palates.
Kumari is in a narrow, multilevel building on North Charles Street, next to a parking lot that some of us recall was once the site of the old Peabody Book Shop and Beer Stube. There is a lounge downstairs — a rather lively one, judging by the shouting that floated up to the dining room. The upstairs dining room has a perch for a few tables that overlook Charles Street. There are additional tables, offering quieter seating, at the rear of the dining room. Our foursome opted for the perch over Charles Street, still an appealing view even if the thoroughfare was not exactly bustling on this particular weeknight.
While other entrees were not as soaring as the tandoori chicken, they were quite good. The lamb rogan josh ($14.50), boneless lamb served in homemade yogurt sauce, was tender and satisfying. The shrimp coconut korma ($15.50), stir-fried shrimp with garlic and ginger simmered in a coconut sauce, was an interesting and successful approach to livening up the crustacean.
The chicken tikka masala ($13.95), boneless pieces of chicken in a creamy sauce, was smooth. My son, who ordered this, regretted he had requested medium spicing. The next step up the fiery ladder, spicy, would have been better, he said.
Desserts were refreshing The kheer ($3.50), a pudding made with aged basmati rice, milk and almonds, was superior. Two servings of kulfi ($3.25 each) — the Indian-style ice cream made with condensed milk — one pistachio, one mango, were restorative, although not as pleasing as the kheer.
Service on the whole was good. Our waitress and a waiter took turns serving us. Their only misstep was failing to bring the naan (Indian bread, $3.25) right away. They had to reminded, but when it arrived, hot and puffy but not sizzling, it was quickly devoured..
As for beverages, I had a Taj Mahal beer ($5). It is an Indian lager, undistinguished, but when in an ethnic restaurant, I try to drink the native brew. My wife stuck with American chardonnay, the Columbia Crest ($5.50 a glass).
Kumari has a tasteful, if not plush, decor. It can be noisy. But none of this matters when the food, especially the tandoori chicken, shows up. The fare here has sizzle and substance.
Kumari Restaurant & Bar
Where: 911 North Charles, Baltimore
Contact: 410-547-1600
Open: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Credit cards: All major
Appetizers: $3.50-$10.95
Entrees: $12.50-$21.95
Food: ✭✭✭
Service: ✭✭1/2
Atmosphere: ✭✭1/2