Located near Loch Raven Reservoir in Phoenix, the setting for numberless anniversary dinners and awkward prom dates, Peerce's Plantation was a north Baltimore County special-occasion, jacket-and-tie dining destination for a good half-century. By most accounts, though, the restaurant began a slow and steady decline in the mid-1990s until it was finally closed in 2001 by its original owners. A brief revival in 2003 under new ownership didn't take.

In 2008, veteran area caterer Joseph Bivona purchased the property, including a banquet hall, elaborately decorated with wrought-iron trellises, which Bivona has been using primarily as a wedding venue called Signature Catering at Peerce's Landing.

Now the restaurant is back in operation, too. On Oct. 4, Bivona reopened the old restaurant space as the Grille at Peerce's Landing. For his chef, Bivona has brought in Mark Hofmann, formerly of Linwood's, the Polo Grill and his own Henry's Bistro. Hofmann has created what he calls an "affordable, user-friendly menu" to fit in with Peerce's new casual atmosphere. Entrees like the pan-roasted chicken breast and short-smoked grilled salmon are priced in the mid- to high-teens. The only entree more than $20 is the filet mignon (which can be ordered either "Diane style," blue-cheese encrusted, or grilled and served plain or with bearnaise sauce). The dinner menu also includes sandwiches and entree salads to appeal to customers looking for that Tuesday night "quick-bite."

"We're not reinventing the wheel," Hofmann says. "We think we appeal to empty-nesters, families and professionals." Not that Hofmann, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, will be taking things casually. "We're a 'scratch kitchen,'" he says. "We use our own veal stock for the French onion soup, no bases or bouillon cubes."

The 150-seat dining room won't look the same to those who remember the old Peerce's. The jacket-and-tie atmosphere is gone. But Hofmann, who makes his home near Phoenix, says the ride up Loch Raven Drive into undeveloped stretches along the reservoir will stir up fond memories as diners come back to Peerce's.

The Grille at Peerce's Landing is open for dinner seven days a week and for brunch on Sunday. The address is 12460 Dulaney Valley Road, and the phone number is 410-252-7111. A website is in the works.

A battle of wits Wednesday is contest day over at baltimoresun.com/diningatlarge. Gather your wits, and your wit, and visit The Baltimore Sun's dining blog. Last week's contest asked responders to change one letter in the name of an area restaurant and then provide an explanation for the rebranded eatery. Rahne Alexander had the winning entry: "Job Squared: Every pizza is a curse from God."

Closings and openings Cypriana has sold its last falafel in the Sun Trust Building — Sept. 24 was the downtown eatery's last day. Meanwhile, the cart that introduced Baltimoreans to the Middle Eastern food of husband and wife Vassos Yiannouris and Maria Kaimikas has ceased regular operations after a multiyear odyssey.

Over at Patterson Park, Bistro Rx opened last week in the space formerly occupied by Parkside and Three. The owner here is Wayne Mahaffey, owner of the popular Canton bar that bears his name, and the chef is Steven Lyne, formerly of the Reserve. Mahaffey's is known for its beer selection, but Bistro Rx will have a focus on wine. The address for Bistro Rx is 2901 E. Baltimore St., and the phone number is 410-276-0820. 

There is one in Columbia and one in College Park, but in November, Baltimore will gets its first Jimmy John's, the Chicago-based franchise claiming to have the "world's greatest sandwiches." It will be located in the Hilton Baltimore at 401 W. Pratt St.

Comings and goings Longtime executive sous chef Christopher "Squints" Becker was recently promoted to executive chef at the Wine Market, replacing Jason Lear. The most recent menu at the Wine Market is wholly credited to Becker.

Ben Erjavec has left his position as executive chef and chief operating partner at the Oceanaire Seafood Room. Erjavec, who had been with the Harbor East restaurant since the beginning, will be opening a restaurant named Seasons 52 in Bethesda next spring. Taking Erjavec's place at Oceanaire is John Taylor, who will be coming down from Oceanaire's Boston location.

richard.gorelick@baltsun.com