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Pony express

This week, thousands of visitors will converge on Chincoteague Island to watch as wild ponies swim 200 yards across the Assateague Island Channel.

The annual pony swim takes all of about three minutes.

For visitors to the area, that's a good thing. It leaves plenty of time to explore Chincoteague's other charms.

I have vacationed on the island since childhood, having grown up in a family that never enjoyed crowded, popular beach destinations. For summer getaways, we opted for Chincoteague's quiet, wildlife-surrounded beaches.

Chincoteague lies parallel to the Virginia side of Assateague Island, which includes the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.

The island has grown more popular over the years, but maintains its quaint character — and the occasional mosquito influx. Many favorite attractions are still around and new ones pop up here and there, adding just a bit of variety.

Chincoteague's simplicity isn't for everyone, but the variety of wildlife, natural beaches and sweet town have more than enough appeal to keep visitors in the swim. Here are five places — plus a bonus — you must see:

1. Main Street, Chincoteague

This used to be, well, the main street of the island because all of the traffic entering the island had to pass through it. A newly opened bridge in a different location now provides access to the island, but strolling up and down Main Street is still one of my favorite things to do. There are restaurants and shops ranging from Sundial Books to the Blue Crab Gallery and Boutique, and even historical sites, like the Island library building.

Info: chincoteaguechamber.com or 757-336-6161

2. Chincoteague Wildlife Refuge

There's a lot of ground to cover here: The refuge has more than 14,000 acres of beach, freshwater marsh, maritime forest and more. The wildlife tours offered by the Herbert Bateman Visitor Center are a great way to explore and will show parts of the island that you can't see otherwise. Trails like the Wildlife Loop and the Lighthouse Trail — which leads to the history-rich Assateague Lighthouse — are great if you want to move at your own pace. Toms Cove Visitor Center, another great resource, has a touch tank, interactive exhibits, and informative staff and is just a short walk away from the beach. Keep in mind that pets are not allowed on the refuge, even in cars, and you have to purchase a pass, starting at $5 for the day, to enter the refuge.

Info: 757-336-6122, fws.gov/northeast/chinco

3. The Island Creamery

The Creamery makes its own ice cream and waffle cones and serves more than 34 flavors of ice cream, sherbet, low-calorie frozen yogurt, and even ice cream cakes. Flavors range from Absolutely Nuts to Marsh Mud to Vanilla Malt. You can eat inside, with the enticing aroma of waffle cones floating in the air, or you can enjoy your sweet dessert on the deck. The Creamery also offers free Internet access and is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. during the summer.

Info: 6243 Maddox Blvd., Chincoteague; 757-336-6236, islandcreamery.net.

4. Pony Tails

Pony Tails is like other gift stores on the island, offering shirts, mugs, jewelry, and other souvenirs, but with one delicious advantage — the shop makes its own saltwater taffy in 18 tasty flavors. They also make their own fudge, which I very rarely leave the island without.

Info: 7011 Maddox Blvd., Chincoteague; 757-336-6688, ponytailstaffy.com

5. Chincoteague Pony Centre

If you don't know who Misty of Chincoteague is now, you will before you leave the island. She's a pony made famous through a book and movie about her life, so it's exciting that the Pony Centre houses some of her direct descendants. The centre also offers face painting, pony rides, Misty memorabilia, and more.

Info: 6417 Carriage Dr., Chincoteague; 757-336-2776.

BONUS: Island Roxy Theatre

To be certain, I don't recommend the Roxy because it's glamorous. Although it was built in 1945, and little has changed, the Art Deco-period theatre has been well maintained. The original green and pink terrazzo is still in the lobby — and Misty's hoof prints are set in the concrete sidewalk near the box office. There's only one screen, and only one or two movies are shown at the theater each week. But it's these things that make the Roxy all the more endearing. Call for show times and ticket prices.

4074 Main St., Chincoteague; 757-336-6301.

If you go

The 85th Annual Pony Swim & Auction takes place Wednesday and Thursday. The ponies swim sometime between 6 a.m. and 11 a.m. depending upon the tide and currents. Shuttle buses will provide transportation from parking at Chincoteague High School beginning at 5 a.m.

The Chincoteague Volunteer Firemen's Carnival coincides with the pony swim. The event featuring food, music and entertainment begins at 7 p.m. at the Carnival Grounds.

Getting there

Chincoteague is about 160 miles from Baltimore, a little more than 3-hour drive. Take I-97 South to Route 301, and then take Route 50 East. Stay on Route 50 as it becomes Route 13 South, then take Virginia Route 175 East. Stay on this road until you reach the island.

Getting around

Transportation around the island: Many visitors bike around the island. If you don't bring your own bike, you can rent from:

The Bike Depot, right across from the Refuge Inn at 7058 Maddox Blvd., offers beach cruisers, tandems, geared bikes, beach equipment, and more for $3 to $32! Helmets are $1/day. Call 757-336-5511.

Jus' Bikes at 6527 Maddox Blvd. has bikes, scooters, surreys, and scoot coupes for hourly, daily or weekly rental. They're open daily from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Call 757-336-6700.

Lodging

Comfort Suites, 4195 Main Street, Chincoteague; 757-336-3700, chincoteaguecomfortsuites.com. Rates: $159 - $219.

Quality Inn, 6273 Maddox Blvd., Chincoteague; 800-221-7490, chincoteaguequality.com. Rates: $109.99 - $159.99. The Quality Inn allows dogs for an additional $15 per night.

The Refuge Inn, 7058 Maddox Blvd., Chincoteague; 888-257-0038, refugeinn.com. Rates: $89 -$320.

Dining

Bill's Seafood Restaurant, 4040 Main St., Chincoteague; 757-336-5831. Bill's Seafood Restaurant is located right on Main Street, so it's a good place to stop if you're shopping or on your way to the Roxy. Bill's breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, which are online at billsseafoodrestaurant.com, have some delicious options.

Sea Shell Cafe, 7085 Maddox Blvd., Chincoteague; 757-336-6005. Don't be fooled by the Sea Shell's somewhat plain outward appearance- the inside of the restaurant is beautiful and the food is delicious. You can take a look at the menu at theseashellcafe.com.

That Mexican Place, 5030 Chicken City Rd., Chincoteague; 757-336-0010. If you suddenly start craving Chipotle and realize that the nearest one is about 65 miles away, don't panic - That Mexican Place can give you a break from all of the seafood you'll probably be eating.

—Marissa Miller

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