Not including the private Center Club, the city hasn't had a classic power-lunch spot since the Polo Grill closed almost 10 years ago. With its ideal location and impressive professionalism, though, the B&O; Brasserie is emerging as a real contender. But you don't have to come here to do business or to see or be seen by anyone. The lunch menu provides a great introduction to the smart American cuisine of chef E. Michael Reich.
12:20 p.m.: The big-boned brasserie looks great in the day light, and it's crowded here on a hot day. There might be business being done, but there is a scattering of tourists in here, too, and the energy level is high, or at least feels like it is – the music is all bass.
I have time to kill before a lunch companion arrives, so I kill it at the bar, which is being tended by a veteran. Guests at the bar face the windows looking out onto Charles Street, not the dining room. Bad, bad, bad. This should be an immediate disqualifier for power-lunch status. As it happens, the bar crowd turns into yoga class, with much bending and craning to keep watch on the dining room.
The bar design also handicaps the poor bartender, who has to walk an absurd route to serve the lounge guests. He is keeping up, but you wish he had some help.
Steak tartare is among the menu's smart starters. Once ordered, it arrives quickly. Served with homemade spiced potato chips, it's a delicious pick-me up.
12:50 p.m.: The companion arrives, and we move over to what the B&O; calls its Chef's Table. On the border of the bar and dining-room areas, it's a high table for eight, with a great view of the dining room. There were tables available up in the dining loft, but that felt away from the action.
12:53 p.m.: I've underestimated the bartender's adroitness. In three minutes, our lunch order has been taken. The B&O; is running a $14 "Power Lunch," featuring a choice of soup or mixed local greens, a choice of a hamburger or chicken pesto sandwich, and cookies to go. If time is an issue, absolutely go for it. If not, explore a bit. We did a bit of both.
1 p.m.: First to arrive is a lovely chilled watermelon gazpacho that tastes refreshing but also substantial, not like a watered down smoothie. We've also ordered up a plate of mac n' cheese croquettes, which are constructed perfectly, with firm noodles and crunchy breading. But they are bland, and just a pinch of cayenne would have saved them.
1:06 p.m.: A gigantic hamburger arrives, and so does a classic aged-cheddar tuna melt, served on an English muffin. The tuna melt looks very familiar. I think I made it in my Toast-R-Oven in 1974. That's probably how everyone likes it, but still, it's a little eerie. The burger, though, is thoroughly smashing. The beef has plenty of flavor, and pickled red onions are just a pretty and tasty garnish. Sandwiches here come with duck-fat fries, served with ketchup. You kind of wish the kitchen had thought up a spiced mayonnaise for them.
1:19 p.m.: The check has been brought, credit card taken, and returned, all briskly and courteously. In all, this is less than a half hour since we moved to the chef's table. The cookies — chocolate chip, origin unknown, are delivered, then, in a little white bag with the restaurant's logo on it.
B&O; Brasserie
Where: 2 N. Charles St.
Contact: 443-692-6172
Lunch hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily
Lunch entrees: $14-$20
Food: ✭✭✭
Service: ✭✭✭
Atmosphere: ✭✭✭1/2
[Key: ✭✭✭✭: Outstanding; ✭✭✭: Good; ✭✭: Fair or Uneven; ✭: Poor]