SUBSCRIBE

Bittersweet news: Fresh Angostura supply due in the spring

Baltimore Sun

My 401(k) is sputtering. My neighborhood firehouse is threatened with cutbacks. Yet I feel flush.

That is because I am awash in Angostura bitters. I had not one, not two, but three bottles of Angostura aromatic bitters, a concoction made from a secret combination of herbs, alcohol, gentian and vegetable flavorings.

Invented as a stomach tonic by a German doctor in Angostura, Venezuela, in 1824, this brand of bitters has been touted as a remedy for everything from malaise to hiccups. But recently, the manufacturer's money troubles disrupted the supply line between the House of Angostura in Trinidad and its worldwide imbibers. Most liquor stores and bars in Baltimore, for instance, have not received a shipment since the fall.

If a report of someone having a surplus of Angostura does not make you jealous or thirsty, then you likely do not view the current shortage of Angostura bitters as the end of civilization as we know it. And, you likely aren't obsessive about the ingredients that compose your evening cocktail.

But if you can't imagine a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned without a "dash" or two of Angostura in your glass, then you might be livid.

"People have been yelling at me, demanding, 'Where are my bitters?' " said Chris Niedenthal, sales manager for Reliable Churchville, the Maryland distributor of Angostura.

The short answer is that most of the available bottles of Angostura, 4-ounce or 10-ounce, are likely gathering dust in home liquor cabinets. A fresh supply from the Trinidad factory probably won't hit Maryland until April or May, Niedenthal said.

I first read about the impending shortage in The Guardian of London. Angst was high in England that its citizens could be without their favorite additive to pink gin cocktails. An official with the U.S distributor, Angostura USA, told the newspaper that the production line had run dry in June because of financial troubles for the Caribbean conglomerate that owned the manufacturer.

In Baltimore, the mixologists I spoke with last week had varied reactions to the dearth of Angostura bitters. Some were shaken, some were not stirred.

Among the agitated was Perez Klebhan of Mr. Rain's Fun House, the restaurant and bar in the American Visionary Art Museum. He said the short supply had played havoc with the establishment's recent campaign to "reintroduce bitters to the American public," by serving versions of cocktails that were popular before Prohibition.

While there are other brands of bitters, Angostura has a distinctive flavor, Klebhan said, and offered this description of the differences.

"Angostura has a more robust flavor profile, Peychaud's is more fruit based, Fee Brothers is spicy and the orange-based bitters are more citrus," he said.

Bereft of a sure supply of Angostura bitters, Klebhan said he and his colleagues have been scouring the landscape, hunting for forgotten bottles.

"We have been checking out old grocery stores and bodegas," he said, adding that they found a stash in a town somewhere north of Baltimore.

However, at other Baltimore watering holes the global scarcity of Angostura has caused no shock waves.

"Shortage?" asked Francisco Lobo, the maitre d' at Tio Pepe. "I have a full bottle right here, and you only use a few drops in a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned."

Ryan Artes, a bartender at the Owl Bar in the Belvedere, said he was confident the bar's large bottle of Angostura would last.

At Woodberry Kitchen, beverage manager Corey Polyoka said he has a stockpile of Angostura and some 20 other brands of bitters. "I buy bitters by the case," he said. "We are good to go."

Brendan Dorr, head bartender at the B&O; American Brasserie, had also stocked up on Angostura. "Each brand of bitters is unique," he said. "When you substitute bitters, it changes the cocktail."

According to Angostura disciples, its healing powers extend beyond cocktails. Artes, the barman at the Belvedere, told me he had found a soothing, day-after use for the bitters.

"A little bitters in some ginger ale is great for a hangover," he said.

And Niedenthal, the besieged distributor, said that back in his days as a barman at Weber's on Boston Street, he came upon a medicinal use of Angostura, a cure for hiccups.

"You take a wedge of lemon, sprinkle it with sugar and a couple drops of bitters, and then chew on the lemon," he said.

While gazing at my treasured bottles of Angostura, I noticed that the bottom of the label recommended several culinary uses.

I tried some. I added two to three dashes to slices of canned pineapple. I shook a couple of drops into a bowl of potato soup. I tried a "dash" on some salad.

Sprinkling bitters on my food felt daring. I wondered what exactly was that "gentian" ingredient listed on the Angostura label and what it would do to my innards. It turned out that it did not do much to my digestive system or to my palate.

I kept thinking of the plight of the Seelbach, an endangered cocktail named for a hotel in Louisville, Ky., that Klebhan at Mr. Rain's Fun House had told me about. He said that in all likelihood the worldwide paucity of bitters might force this mixture of bourbon, sparkling wine and Angostura to disappear from the drink menu.

I was overflowing with bitters, another mixologist was wanting. So I shared.

I am here to tell you that there is great joy in giving the gift of bitters. It tastes pretty good, too.


Discuss this story and others in our talk forums Most recent entertainment talk forum topics: More entertainment talk forums: Music | Restaurants | Television | Movies Note: In-story commenting has been temporarily disabled due to technical issues. We are working to correct the issue and will bring back this feature in the future. In the meantime, please use our talk forums to discuss stories.

Recipe search   Search over 3,000 recipes in our archive
Keywords:  
Or choose a date:   Choose ... All to April '02 Feb. 3, 2010 Jan. 27, 2010 Jan. 20, 2010 Jan. 13, 2010 Jan. 6, 2010 Dec. 30, 2009 Dec. 23, 2009 Dec. 16, 2009 Dec. 9, 2009 Dec. 2, 2009 Nov. 25, 2009 Nov. 18, 2009 Nov. 11, 2009 Nov. 4, 2009 Oct. 28, 2009 Oct. 21, 2009 Oct. 14, 2009 Oct. 7, 2009 Sept. 30, 2009 Sept. 23, 2009 Sept. 16, 2009 Sept. 9, 2009 Sept. 2, 2009 Aug. 26, 2009 Aug. 19, 2009 Aug. 12, 2009 Aug. 5, 2009 July 29, 2009 July 22, 2009 July 15, 2009 July 8, 2009 July 1, 2009 June 24, 2009 June 17, 2009 June 10, 2009 June 3, 2009 May 27, 2009 May 20, 2009 May 13, 2009 May 6, 2009 April 29, 2009 April 22, 2009 April 15, 2009 April 8, 2009 April 1, 2009 March 25, 2009 March 18, 2009 March 4, 2009 Feb. 25, 2009 Feb. 18, 2009 Feb. 11, 2009 Feb. 4, 2009 Jan. 28, 2009 Jan. 21, 2009 Jan. 14, 2009 Jan. 7, 2009 Dec. 31, 2008 Dec. 24, 2008 Dec. 17, 2008 Dec. 10, 2008 Dec. 3, 2008 Nov. 26, 2008 Nov. 19, 2008 Nov. 12, 2008 Nov. 5, 2008 Oct. 29, 2008 Oct. 22, 2008 Oct. 15, 2008 Oct. 8, 2008 Oct. 1, 2008 Sept. 24, 2008 Sept. 17, 2008 Sept. 10, 2008 Sept. 3, 2008 Aug. 27, 2008 Aug. 20, 2008 Aug. 13, 2008 Aug. 6, 2008 July 30, 2008 July 23, 2008 July 16, 2008 July 9, 2008 July 2, 2008 June 25, 2008 June 18, 2008 June 11, 2008 June 4, 2008 May 28, 2008 May 21, 2008 May 14, 2008 May 7, 2008 April 30, 2008 April 23, 2008 April 16, 2008 April 9, 2008 April 2, 2008 March 26, 2008 March 19, 2008 March 12, 2008 March 5, 2008 Feb. 27, 2008 Feb. 20, 2008 Feb. 13, 2008 Feb. 6, 2008 Jan. 30, 2008 Jan. 23, 2008 Jan. 16, 2008 Jan. 9, 2008 Jan. 2, 2008 Dec. 26, 2007 Dec. 19, 2007 Dec. 12, 2007 Dec. 5, 2007 Nov. 28, 2007 Nov. 21, 2007 Nov. 14, 2007 Nov. 7, 2007 Oct. 31, 2007 Oct. 24, 2007 Oct. 17, 2007 Oct. 10, 2007 Oct. 3, 2007 Sept. 26, 2007 Sept. 19, 2007 Sept. 12, 2007 Sept. 5, 2007 Aug. 29, 2007 Aug. 22, 2007 Aug. 15, 2007 Aug. 8, 2007 Aug. 1, 2007 July 25, 2007 July 18, 2007 July 11, 2007 July 4, 2007 June 27, 2007 June 20, 2007 June 13, 2007 June 6, 2007 May 30, 2007 May 23, 2007 May 16, 2007 May 9, 2007 May 2, 2007 April 25, 2007 April 18, 2007 April 11, 2007 April 4, 2007 March 28, 2007 March 21, 2007 March 14, 2007 March 7, 2007 Feb. 28, 2007 Feb. 21, 2007 Feb. 14, 2007 Feb. 7, 2007 Jan. 31, 2007 Jan. 24, 2007 Jan. 17, 2007 Jan. 10, 2007 Jan. 3, 2007 Dec. 27, 2006 Dec. 20, 2006 Dec. 13, 2006 Dec. 6, 2006 Nov. 29, 2006 Nov. 22, 2006 Nov. 15, 2006 Nov. 8, 2006 Nov. 1, 2006 Oct. 25, 2006 Oct. 18, 2006 Oct. 11, 2006 Oct. 4, 2006 Sept. 27, 2006 Sept. 20, 2006 Sept. 13, 2006 Sept. 6, 2006 Aug. 30, 2006 Aug. 23, 2006 Aug. 16, 2006 Aug. 9, 2006 Aug. 2, 2006 July 26, 2006 July 19, 2006 July 12, 2006 July 5, 2006 June 28, 2006 June 21, 2006 June 14, 2006 June 7, 2006 May 31, 2006 May 24, 2006 May 17, 2006 May 10, 2006 May 3, 2006 April 26, 2006 April 19, 2006 April 12, 2006 April 5, 2006 March 29, 2006 March 22, 2006 March 15, 2006 March 8, 2006 March 1, 2006 Feb. 22, 2006 Feb. 15, 2006 Feb. 8, 2006 Feb. 1, 2006 Jan. 25, 2006 Jan. 18, 2006 Jan. 11, 2006 Jan. 4, 2006 Dec. 28, 2005 Dec. 21, 2005 Dec. 14, 2005 Dec. 7, 2005 Nov. 30, 2005 Nov. 23, 2005 Nov. 16, 2005 Nov. 9, 2005 Nov. 2, 2005 Oct. 26, 2005 Oct. 19, 2005 Oct. 12, 2005 Oct. 5, 2005 Sept. 28, 2005 Sept. 21, 2005 Sept. 14, 2005 Sept. 7, 2005 Aug. 31, 2005 Aug. 24, 2005 Aug. 17, 2005 Aug. 10, 2005 Aug. 3, 2005 July 27, 2005 July 20, 2005 July 13, 2005 July 6, 2005 June 29, 2005 June 22, 2005 June 15, 2005 June 8, 2005 June 1, 2005 May 25, 2005 May 18, 2005 May 11, 2005 May 4, 2005 April 27, 2005 April 20, 2005 April 13, 2005 April 6, 2005 March 30, 2005 March 23, 2005 March 16, 2005 March 9, 2005 March 2, 2005 Feb. 23, 2005 Feb. 16, 2005 Feb. 9, 2005 Feb. 2, 2005 Jan. 26, 2005 Jan. 19, 2005 Jan. 12, 2005 Jan. 5, 2005 Dec. 29, 2004 Dec. 22, 2004 Dec. 15, 2004 Dec. 8, 2004 Dec. 1, 2004 Nov. 24, 2004 Nov. 17, 2004 Nov. 10, 2004 Nov. 3, 2004 Oct. 27, 2004 Oct. 20, 2004 Oct. 13, 2004 Oct. 6, 2004 Sept. 29, 2004 Sept. 22, 2004 Sept. 15, 2004 Sept. 8, 2004 Sept. 1, 2004 Aug. 25, 2004 Aug. 18, 2004 Aug. 11, 2004 Aug. 4, 2004 July 28, 2004 July 21, 2004 July 14, 2004 July 7, 2004 June 30, 2004 June 23, 2004 June 16, 2004 June 9, 2004 June 2, 2004 May 26, 2004 May 19, 2004 May 12, 2004 May 5, 2004 April 28, 2004 April 21, 2004 April 14, 2004 April 7, 2004 March 31, 2004 March 24, 2004 March 17, 2004 March 10, 2004 March 3, 2004 Feb. 25, 2004 Feb. 18, 2004 Feb. 11, 2004 Feb. 4, 2004 Jan. 28, 2004 Jan. 21, 2004 Jan. 14, 2004 Jan. 7, 2004 Dec. 31, 2003 Dec. 24, 2003 Dec. 17, 2003 Dec. 10, 2003 Dec. 3, 2003 Nov. 26, 2003 Nov. 19, 2003 Nov. 12, 2003 Nov. 5, 2003 Oct. 29, 2003 Oct. 22, 2003 Oct. 15, 2003 Oct. 8, 2003 Oct. 1, 2003 Sept. 24, 2003 Sept. 17, 2003 Sept. 10, 2003 Sept. 3, 2003 Aug. 27, 2003 Aug. 20, 2003 Aug. 13, 2003 Aug. 6, 2003 July 30, 2003 July 23, 2003 July 16, 2003 July 9, 2003 July 2, 2003 June 25, 2003 June 18, 2003 June 11, 2003 June 4, 2003 May 28, 2003 May 21, 2003 May 14, 2003 May 7, 2003 April 30, 2003 April 23, 2003 April 16, 2003 April 9, 2003 April 2, 2003 March 26, 2003 March 19, 2003 March 12, 2003 March 5, 2003 Feb. 26, 2003 Feb. 19 2003 Feb. 12, 2003 Feb. 5, 2003 Jan. 29, 2003 Jan. 22, 2003 Jan. 15, 2003
Taste recipes: Pasta salad with smoked chicken | No-Fail Sour Cream Chocolate Cake |
Popular searches: Blueberries | Ribs | Grilled shrimp | Recipes from local chefs

Copyright © 2021, The Baltimore Sun, a Baltimore Sun Media Group publication | Place an Ad

You've reached your monthly free article limit.

Get Unlimited Digital Access

4 weeks for only 99¢
Subscribe Now

Cancel Anytime

Already have digital access? Log in

Log out

Print subscriber? Activate digital access