The pit roasting brings smokiness, which I was excited to taste. First up was Vago's Espadin mezcal (named after the agave species used). It doesn't pack the sooty wallop of Islay whiskey but invokes charcoal smoke drifting over from a neighbor's barbecue. This weaves in and out of a liquid that at turns tastes minerally, herbaceous, and fruity. Complex and compelling stuff, with less burn than I expect from something consumed neat at just over 100 proof. Next up, the Mayalen brand of Wild Cupreata mezcal (again, the agave species). The smoke is dialed back some while the heat turned up. Toasted lemon butterscotch with grassy overtones? Then she poured me some Fidencio Tobala, which was fruity with a citrus bite. And then . . . well, you get the point (and don't worry, I'd arranged for my wife to drive me home).