Hailing from Hong Kong, chef Chun Keung Li, 54, began his culinary apprenticeship at the age of 13. He didn't have a particular passion for cooking at that time, but says, "When I was a child, I was hungry. No money to eat, and it was not easy to fill my stomach, so I thought working in a kitchen is a good choice to fill up my stomach." By the age of 25, he had worked his way up to a position at a five-star hotel. "At the hotel, they got different stations," he continues in his thick accent. "When you're a sauce cook, you're always a sauce cook—just do that only. Nothing I could learn anymore, so I quit." Around the same time, Li's mother, who had already immigrated to America with both his younger sister and brother, told him to join them in the U.S. He arrived in 1989, when he was 28. Li's first job here was cooking at a Chinese restaurant on Reisterstown Road, before joining Hunan Manor in Columbia. He worked there for 13 years, eventually becoming executive chef. Then, in 2005, he decided to venture out on his own, opening Grace Garden at the urging of his wife, Xiu Mei, who presides over the front of the house. Ten years later, it's still consistently the best Chinese food around.