Originally produced in the small town of Moliterno in the southern Italian region of Basilicata, these days Pecorino Moliterno most often comes from Sardinia. Made from ewe's milk, the cheese features the three main food groups: salty, sweet, and spicy. The immediate saltiness opens to a saccharine paste followed by a peppery bite. The truffle cream, which is injected into the olive-oil-rubbed wheels after several months or even a year of aging, forms in thick, moist veins, grounding the flavor in a strong, pervading earthiness. It's like a pint of Ben & Jerry's, generous in fillings and flavors, or if you poured honey all over your naked body, rolled in damp soil, washed off in red wine among a herd of fungus-sniffing swine, and then sacrificed those pigs in a twilight pagan ritual in an ancient, candlelit Italian temple. With all of these nuanced tastes, Moliterno is an unexpected crowd-pleaser, even if it's filled with demon dick.