Too few restaurants include cheese menus these days, so when we visited Le Garage in Hampden (our Best New Restaurant of 2014) intending to dine on just frites and beer and discovered that they serve small plates with various cheeses and garnishes, we were relieved that at least a French (and Belgian) place hasn't forgotten dairy's most divine incarnation. After turning down Dunbarton Blue with wet walnuts and Taleggio with pepper honey, we chose Crottin with balsamic apricots ($6). The plate included a generous serving of baguette crisps that was disproportionate to the tiny Crottin wedge, hardly bigger than one of the apricots. We didn't bother spreading the cheese on the crisps: The wedge probably wouldn't cover more than three. Restaurants usually disappoint us with their cheese stinginess, so at least we weren't surprised—although our disappointment grew when we experienced the marvelousness of the bite-size wedge.