Dimitri Extra Virgin Olive Oil, an olive-oil company based in Baltimore with product coming from a family olive farm in the southern region of Greece, is used at restaurants all over Baltimore and is available at farmers markets in Maryland, Virginia, Washington, D.C., and Pennsylvania. A few months ago, the family business decided to open DEVOO (an acronym, get it?), a small deli and specialty market, on West Biddle Street in the heart of Mid-Town Belvedere. It offers a small selection of deli sandwiches, olives, and cold salads, and has bottles of its eponymous olive oil available for purchase and to sample.
On a recent hot day we knew there was no way we could eat anything toasted, so we passed on the paninis and kabob and instead ordered the Greek cold cut ($8) on focaccia bread. The resulting sandwich was massive, piled high with salami, mortadella sausage, smoked turkey, provolone, tomato, red onions, green peppers, and mitzithra cheese, with tzatziki sauce and olive oil smeared on the inside of the bread. We weren’t able to totally avoid the heat—the focaccia bread was warm, as though the sandwich had been put on the panini press just long enough to keep it warm—but we were OK with it. The bread was just slightly crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and made for the perfect way to handle the massive amount of meats.
DEVOO’s Facebook page boasts that it uses local vegetables, and you could tell from the quality of the vegetables on this sandwich. We couldn’t stop marveling over how red and juicy the slices of tomato were, and how perfectly crisp the bell pepper was. Our only quibble about the sandwich would be that we’d like more tzatziki sauce, mostly because it was so delicious that we could have probably eaten the yogurt-based sauce by the spoonful if possible.
The sandwiches all come with either a pickle or olives as a side. We opted for the olives, and were blown away by how flavorful and subtly sweet the olives were—the man behind the counter told us they were Kalamata olives that had been infused with orange, which explained the surpringly complex flavor. We’ll be back to buy those olives by the bucketful.