There is something inherently shameful about eating a fried omelet smothered in thick, brown gravy. This is why the chicken egg foo young at Yung's is the ideal medicine to cope with our Sunday-night terrors. We've tried a 16-inch pizza, with extra sausage, but we didn't loathe ourselves enough afterwards. And self-loathing is key, as is finishing off the whole carton in one sitting. Know this, too. We've tried the egg foo young at other joints, but the gravy was always too thin, or the batter too polite. No, Yung's does this bad thing best. In the old days, we used to stop at Yung's on our way home from The Atlantis, drunk. That was the perfect shame Sunday evening.