Finding the Seoul Spa takes a committed traveler. You must go all the way out to Security Boulevard, circle around the main mall there only to find yourself in a second, smaller dilapidated mall. Most of the stores are shuttered and those that cling to life in the largely vacant spot are weird—there was a girdle shop for a while and a Zumba studio which sent music echoing and bouncing through the cavernous space. But persevere. Make your way through this eerie suburban wasteland to the broken escalator in the back and climb up. At the top, enter another world. For $30, you hand over your shoes for some towels and a bright orange gym uniform and spend the day soaking in hot tubs or moving from the Himalayan Salt sauna to the Charcoal sauna to the Jewel sauna to the icy cold room to the nap room. For a massage that will change your life, seek out Mr. Yu, who is a true artist when it comes ferreting out knots and kneading them away. The master masseuse uses his hands and feet to bend and manipulate your body until all tensions flow out into the ether to claim some other unwary soul.