It was clear from the first course that dinner at Arômes (3520 Chestnut Ave.,  235-0035, aromesrestaurant.com) would be a delight: a small plate of perfectly pillowy gnocchi, topped with a foamy brown-butter sauce. It sounds simple, but this gnocchi was unlike any we’d had before. The plump little dumplings quivered under pressure from my fork before giving way to reveal the fresh-tasting ricotta tucked inside, and the flavors were complemented well by the small puddles of dark-green, puréed charred ramps that were hidden beneath the gnocchi. Somehow chef Steve Monnier had transformed butter, potatoes, cheese, and flour into a course that was simultaneously rich and light. I scraped every trace of the dish off my plate and eagerly waited to see what else Monnier had planned for us that evening.