I got the best sense of that from one of the final tracks of the excellent audio tour that guided me the whole way. The narrator asked if I would have aided fugitives along the Underground Railroad if I'd been alive back then. It's not so easy to decide, she said. Many free black and enslaved people refused to help, turning in freedom seekers for reward money, to gain favor with slave owners, or for their own personal reasons. Many white people helped people along the Underground Railroad in spite of great personal risks. Everybody's complicated, she said, and I thought to myself, this audio tour has officially gone off the rails trying to make everybody morally equivalent at the last minute. The rhetoric of reconciliation, that we are all Americans who shared in a complicated world of suffering, rang false given not only what I know about history and see in the present, but was undermined by the rest of the tour that highlighted the heartwrenching struggles of so many to get themselves free. History's complicated, and so is heritage, and at this point in the week, I'm just plain tired out. Time for a trip to the casino up the street—I'll think about how the whole place is basically a giant poor tax some other time.