It's a four-step process, the first being deciding whether you want a small ($7.95) or big ($9.95) bowl of noodles. Step two is to decide whether you want them served simply as noodles ("haeng") or as a soup ("naam") or-as would seem to be the best of both worlds-"dry" with broth on the side. Next comes naming your noodles, choosing from different varieties to form the foundation of the dish. There are rice stick noodles (think of the kind used in pad thai), wire-thin rice vermicelli (as in pho), wide, flat yellow egg noodles, soybean-based cellophane noodles. The final step is to customize your order by specifying meat, vegetables, and garnishes. Add-ins include proteins from chicken, pork, and beef to fish balls, tofu, or duck; vegetables like preserved mustard greens, bean sprouts, or mushrooms; and toppings like cilantro, scallions, and ground peanuts.