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Linda Ditzel at Zissimos

1023 W. 36th St., (410) 467-4707

Thursday through Sunday mornings, starting at 6 a.m., Linda-a teensy, wiry lady with thick spectacles that look like they're out of the '70s, perhaps-mans the bar at Zissimos, the Hampden dive where you can always expect to find some patrons playing the gambling machines in the back, icy Bud product in hand. As the Bard wrote, "though she be but little, she is fierce." We watched Linda, in all her wee glory, induce fear in a tardy Utz deliveryman, sullen and head-down. But she is also gentle-a kind, listening ear for many patrons-and she'll hustle to fix you a drink or retrieve the Zissimos wifi password if you so much as wonder aloud about it. If low-key day-drinking with guaranteed entertainment is what you're after, seek out Linda.

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