Sobo Café’s menu is confined to one page and, with few exceptions, reads like vintage diner fare meets bistro. There’s mac ‘n’ cheese and Salisbury steak; chicken, both roasted and tucked into a potpie; creamed kale, salmon rilletes, and spinach pie. Then there’s that squash curry, rich with chunks of butternut squash and a small island of delicate, anise-scented rice in the middle of a coconut-milk-infused broth that tastes both exotic and homey. From another corner of the globe comes Carolina-style chicken carnitas ($15), shredded chicken in a Carolina-style piquant barbecue sauce, with puffy, addictive, cheddar-infused papusas. On some menus, dishes like these would feel like a stretch, like a kitchen trying to do too much, but here they fit in with other ethnic offerings, like a rather dull feta dip ($7) or the Mediterranean-inflected cocktail appetizer platter ($10), where lamb meatballs are overshadowed by savory “duckies in a blanket,” house-made duck sausages wrapped in flaky pastry.