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All this (a lunch special) and chips and salsa cost less than 10 bucks.

Los Amigos

5506 Harford Road, (410) 444-4220, losamigosbaltimore.com

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When's the last time

you opened a takeout container and whispered to yourself, “Fuck yeah”? This was more or less our reaction to a chili relleno from Hamilton’s Los Amigos, six-plus inches of fried poblano soaking half in fried beans and half in cheese-plus-red-sauce with a just a little bit of stem poking out, kinda like a shrimp tail. You’re rewarded with a perfect marriage of the pepper’s warmth and mild Mexican cheese; a chili relleno done well is that simple and better than most things. Meanwhile, a guacamole salad proves itself again as an ideal indicator of general freshness—you can’t hide time from an opened avocado—with a dab of perhaps a little too salty guac over shredded iceberg proving perfectly serviceable. Finally, a beef taco is super-plain with just iceberg and meat, but ground beef actually tasting like beef and not a fistful of seasoning blend is a nice surprise. All this (a lunch special) and chips and salsa cost less than 10 bucks.

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