Still, few diners will confuse the restaurant’s ethereal puffs of salt cod fritters ($9) with Cohen’s famous coddies (there’s room for both versions in this city, I think). Nor will many diners have sentimental memories of the Carolina rice porridge with duck tongues ($9) their grandmother used to make. This unusual dish looks both humble and a little shocking, the tumble of slightly chewy tongues waiting to be bound together with egg and onion. That said, it all works in a savory, down-home way. The flavors here skew Asian, and given the generous portion, it is a dish worth sharing. Less adventurous eaters can still find satisfaction in more conventional offerings, such as a small plate of roasted eggplant draped across house-made smoked ricotta like nigiri sushi and dressed with a balsamic reduction and a sprinkle of black walnuts, a nod to a regional ingredient not used often these days.