And then there is Hersh’s raison d’etre: pizza. Stephanie Hershkovitz explains that the restaurant is not open for lunch because the pizza starter takes 24 hours to develop. Those hours are well worth the investment, and yield a crisp crust that nonetheless has a depth that keeps it from being simply a base for toppings. Hersh’s offers its signature combinations, including clam, prosciutto and arugula, a margherita ($10) topped with artisanal cheese from Wisconsin to which we added house-made sweet fennel sausage ($3), and the kale and pistachio combo ($12) with fontina, lots of garlic, a little pecorino romano, and, in our case, an order of mortadella, which was like adding the best fried bologna you ever had to pizza. I doubted it too, but it works.