He was also deft in bringing dishes to the table in an order that made sense, so that ensalada simple ($7.95), a small mound of arugula crowned with a pink rose of Serrano ham and thin wedges of Manchego came early in the meal, even though it was ordered as an afterthought. Soon after came more wickedly good Manchego ($6.95), this time coated in almonds and fried until melting, savory-sweet in a drizzle of honey truffle oil. Next was one of the night’s specials, huevos sortidas ($7), a dish that managed to capture the current craze for pickled things and retro comfort food. Here, anchovy, smoked salmon, and a pert cornichon perch atop hard-cooked free-range eggs in a mix of salty, creamy, and crunchy. It’s a nibble that begs for a beer. Verdant pea fritters ($5.95), on the other hand, with rich middles of melting cheese tucked inside the patties like a yolk, benefit more from a sip of crisp Grüner Veltliner. Fortunately, this, too, is available by the glass.