Mumbai welcomes me warmly with a strong odor of raw sewage and fossil fuel pollution, mixed in with hints of sweet incense and steaming chai tea. The streets are loud, really loud. Drivers honk their horns constantly, not because they have road rage, but they want to make sure the vehicle in front of them knows that they are about to pass them, left or right, you never know. Everything that can move moves on the streets of Mumbai--cars, red double-decker buses, rickshaws, motorbikes, scooters, bicycles, ox-carts, people pushing huge loads of goods on carts, pedestrians, dogs. I did not see any cows laying around like I did before in Delhi. The flow of people on the sidewalks feels and looks like a big, colorful river. I feel like I am standing inside a movie watching it roll by.