Imagine: a restaurant in Ocean City with actual character. When Washington, D.C. lawyer Warren Rosenfeld retired "downy oshun," he and his wife realized it was at least two hours away from any decent Jewish grub. His grandpa had run a bakery; his parents had run a diner. Back to work he went. Rosenfeld found some partners and opened a Jewish deli in the old Sunshine House surf-shop building on Coastal Highway right by the Route 90 bridge. A real Jewish deli: matzo brei, latkes, kasha knishes, cucumber and onion salad, kosher hot dogs, noodle kugel, corned beef and brisket sandwiches, bagels with herring and cream cheese. And an obscenely delicious pastrami sandwich. Who needs boogie boards and wet suits when you can get a chopped liver club and a pound of halvah?