We stepped into this old standby in Federal Hill and the emptiness slapped us with a shocking reality that's hard to shake off. Isn't Cross Street Market the unofficial flagship of the neighborhood market in Baltimore, a place you can go and stand still in time, listen the buzz of the crowd, and get some fresh-scooped Utz, handpicked candies, fish, and veggies and still be done faster than a cellphone-clutching momma can park her SUV at the Harris Teeter? Is Harris Teeter why people have abandoned one of the few places to get communal in Fed Hill? Does everything have to be served up like a bourgeois bouillabaisse of trendy selections, like what's found at the Belvedere Market? The Cross Street Market has been open for business since 1845. Respect that, for it will be a sad and probably an inevitable day when Cross Street Market morphs into a boutique muddle of snooty eateries.